Legit Queen Blee Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Please use this for quick K&T related questions only. Do not use this thread to spam off topic. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 anyone who's ever changed the tubes in their amp: do you notice much of a difference with brand/matched/etc etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 anyone who's ever changed the tubes in their amp: do you notice much of a difference with brand/matched/etc etc? yeah, i changed from the stock ones to some higher gain JJs ones. I had more volume, a crisper and brighter tone and a dead amp shortly after. I'm back the the stock ones now because they actually work, but yeah there are benefits from decent valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 i'm trying to see what way to go about the Valvecaster. Shitty ones could be good, to get a grainy, gain sound, but, that being said...... a crisp, balanced od is seriously sexy.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 what does it take? a pre amp valve? what kind are you going to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 yeah, i changed from the stock ones to some higher gain JJs ones. I had more volume, a crisper and brighter tone and a dead amp shortly after. I'm back the the stock ones now because they actually work, but yeah there are benefits from decent valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 it takes a 12##7 series. Although, it has been made before with a 6111 subminiature, but they're not too easy to get. Even though it's a starved plate, you still get big differences between the different tubes. The various testimonials go like this: 12AX7 is WAY too much gain. The gain dial just doesn't give enough headroom. It's messy and awkward. 12AU7 is the recommended one. A pretty decent level of gain, not too much, not too little. 12AY7 (or less) seems to just fall short of a nice amount of gain, and basically makes the pedal a fancy boost pedal. 6111 Subminiature seems to make it a bit more bassy. and a lot less bright. the 6111 kinda interests me, cos i find i'm constantly adjusting the mid and bass on my vox. But, i think with the 12AU7, i could get a nice balance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 12AX7, gain galore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 they're pretty cheap for shitty ones. I'll try both a 12AX7 and 12AU7 and maybe something random like a 12AV7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 something else to consider is a 12AZ7 apparently they're quite similar to a 12AT7, but have a different clipping characteristic .... not even sure if this tube is still in production though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popey Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Quick post to address the change, since a very small minority of people are confused. The Kit and Tab banter thread was allowed under the assumption that it was there for general kit and tab related chat. We found that it was being used as a secondary banter which isn't fair since we've locked other people's threads in different areas so we changed the K&T Banter thread to quick questions and are asking that if you want to participate in off topic chat then try posting in banter. Though this doesn't mean we're going to be uber strict and not allow conversations to develop like they naturally do but we're just trying to organise the place a bit. Thanks for most of you not giving agro over this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 something else to consider is a 12AZ7 apparently they're quite similar to a 12AT7, but have a different clipping characteristic .... not even sure if this tube is still in production though.. I'll have a look around. I think there's a few similar to 12AT7's and 12AU7's, but with wierd codes like 12AV7 or 12AB7. I'm also trying to figure out the letters AFTER the code, but it seems to be brand specific, and are in relation to how good the sound is. Like i think one is something like 12AX7L where the L stands for low noise or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 I'll have a look around. I think there's a few similar to 12AT7's and 12AU7's, but with wierd codes like 12AV7 or 12AB7. I'm also trying to figure out the letters AFTER the code, but it seems to be brand specific, and are in relation to how good the sound is. Like i think one is something like 12AX7L where the L stands for low noise or something. You also have 12AX7WA for example (which can be found on either current production sovteks, or NOS american made tubes) also, look for ECC81, ECC82, and ECC83 tubes... they are the same as 12AT7, 12AU7, and 12AX7. Different names. There are also ones like .. E83CC for example. If you see a name like that, it's generally a high grade ECC83/12AX7. Oh, and maybe a 5751 might be something to look into?...it's supposedly got the same amount of gain as the 12AT7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 with most of the tube supply sites, if you search for like 12AU7, it'll also display the euro code, like ECC81 or whatever. The only issue with getting the higher grade ones, is they're a lot more expensive. I came across a tube earlier for £700! james do you know what the miniature/subminiature equiv of a 12AT7 (and/or) a 12AU7 is? google has failed me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 with most of the tube supply sites, if you search for like 12AU7, it'll also display the euro code, like ECC81 or whatever. The only issue with getting the higher grade ones, is they're a lot more expensive. I came across a tube earlier for £700! james do you know what the miniature/subminiature equiv of a 12AT7 (and/or) a 12AU7 is? google has failed me. £700?! You can also get them 'graded' for high gain or low microphonics. As well as balanced triodes - it generally costs a few extra pounds, but not £700 haha. That must have been some NOS thing. I'm not sure what you mean by subminiature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 £700?! You can also get them 'graded' for high gain or low microphonics. As well as balanced triodes - it generally costs a few extra pounds, but not £700 haha. That must have been some NOS thing. I'm not sure what you mean by subminiature? check these out: http://www.tubedepot.com/re-u707.html http://www.tubedepot.com/pa-6922-pw.html http://www.tubedepot.com/re-u77.html http://www.tubedepot.com/pa-ecc803s-tele.html http://www.tubedepot.com/tr-re604.html http://www.tubedepot.com/we-205d.html olol! price mesplosion! yeah, subminiature. Well, you know the way there's, for example, a 12AU7? But then there's a "subminiature" equivilant, which is a much smaller one, but does ALMOST the same thing. here, you can see a 12AU7, with a subminiature equivilant, the 6111. I know the 6111 has a different, more common code though... i just can't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 check these out: http://www.tubedepot.com/re-u707.html http://www.tubedepot.com/pa-6922-pw.html http://www.tubedepot.com/re-u77.html http://www.tubedepot.com/pa-ecc803s-tele.html http://www.tubedepot.com/tr-re604.html http://www.tubedepot.com/we-205d.html olol! price mesplosion! yeah, subminiature. Well, you know the way there's, for example, a 12AU7? But then there's a "subminiature" equivilant, which is a much smaller one, but does ALMOST the same thing. here, you can see a 12AU7, with a subminiature equivilant, the 6111. I know the 6111 has a different, more common code though... i just can't find it. http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ValveCaster/6111.jpg Oh right Not too familiar with those, just what they use in guitar amps haha. I know a fair few sites that might have info though - I'll check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gemsy Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 this. it all just seems a touch unnecessary, really. ill flesh out my point later on (got an exam to run to now), but in the meantime we should keep things rational and spam-free, unlike last time.. We made the decision to do this as a team, as we feel it is necessary, for various reasons. And we do understand and have taken on board all points that have been made, dude... we're working on a solution so everyone will be happy. In the meantime just try and use the banter thread in the banter forum? You can talk about music-related things in there, plenty of us already do. Lots of people from here have been in there tonight and it's been nice! But let's not bring all this arguing up in public; if you want to make another point please feel free to PM us. We're not just doing this to be cunts. You mean we should talk about whammies gear? ? Precisely. Anything goes in the Banter thread, as I've been explaining in there tonight it's fine to have your own conversation. Everyone else does! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee_and_tv Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 We made the decision to do this as a team, as we feel it is necessary, for various reasons. And we do understand and have taken on board all points that have been made, dude... we're working on a solution so everyone will be happy. In the meantime just try and use the banter thread in the banter forum? You can talk about music-related things in there, plenty of us already do. Lots of people from here have been in there tonight and it's been nice! But let's not bring all this arguing up in public; if you want to make another point please feel free to PM us. We're not just doing this to be cunts. fair play there. i guess its just a balancing act between keeping things civil, happy, and informative (which are, of course, very important here), and retaining the personality of this area (which is why we all keep coming back). im sure all the (non-cuntish) k+t regs will try and make this work out as intended:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee_and_tv Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 now a kit-related question.. last time i got my tele set up, the tech said it had a little crack in the nut under the D string, which resulted in added buzz. i shifted up a string gauge and it became less of an issue, but now im back using 10s and the buzz has returned. so i guess i need a new nut. question is: what kinda nuts would people reccomend (bone/plastic/graphite/roller/etc?), and what kinda prices are reasonable for a nut replacement? cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthijs Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 A rolling nut would be quite useless as your tele doesn't have a whammy bar on it, so you don't divebomb. I would go with bone, and they're about... $10 max? Then it would depend how long it'd take to get it off and on again, which you could even do yourself probably, unless it's lacquered over or something like that... you should be done for about $40 max (which is already near steep) if you have it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I always use graphite nuts. just preference i guess. it shouldn't cost much. you could even get some small files and do it yourself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian KEEEEM Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I suggest getting a bone nut and just getting a random pencil and rubbing the graphite part in the slots for the strings. Seeing how people rave about how bone nuts are mega sustain or whatnot and how graphite seems to be a good lubricant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee_and_tv Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 A rolling nut would be quite useless as your tele doesn't have a whammy bar on it, so you don't divebomb. I would go with bone, and they're about... $10 max? Then it would depend how long it'd take to get it off and on again, which you could even do yourself probably, unless it's lacquered over or something like that... you should be done for about $40 max (which is already near steep) if you have it done. hahah shows how little i know.. i guess ill phone around a few places, see what kinda prices come up I always use graphite nuts. just preference i guess. it shouldn't cost much. you could even get some small files and do it yourself! do you find theres much of a difference between graphite and the others? and is it much more pricey? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheddatom Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 A rolling nut would be quite useless as your tele doesn't have a whammy bar on it, so you don't divebomb. Yep, you can't whammy without a whammy. I reckon all nuts are the same, but graphite will last longer? I'm sure there are some gear nuts who will say they can tell the difference. I got a new acoustic nut done for £10 once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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