Fish Luke Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Generally I'd avoid the ones on eBay unless they're from a reputable seller that has sold LOTS of properly tested tubes and has good reviews. When you say it's svetlana, it could be two different things. Either the new ones (which are made by the same company that does Sovtek, electro harmonix, and most other new russian tubes) or the older ones from before around 2000, which are different (and supposedly better) Chances are it's one of the new ones, but still worth a try I guess. As for preamp tubes, how many does the SL5 use? Guessing at least two. In high gain Marshall type amps, I generally put a new production tung sol 12AX7 in the first slot, and Chinese/Shuguang in the rest. Ahh well it was only a tenner so doesn't hurt to try! There are 3 12ax7, all Chinese but the first one is yellow label and the other two or white label. Could always order a tung-sol to try since one barely costs anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Ahh well it was only a tenner so doesn't hurt to try! There are 3 12ax7, all Chinese but the first one is yellow label and the other two or white label. Could always order a tung-sol to try since one barely costs anything. Fair enough - I suppose you don't have to worry about matched power tubes with this amp at least. I'm guessing the yellow label is graded as low noise or something. Is this the one closest to the input jack? If so, you could try replacing this with the tung sol 12AX7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 In the DSL15, they have a particularly dark, low gain tube in V1 to tame some of the brightness (according to the Marshall forum), so it's possible it's something like that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 In the DSL15, they have a particularly dark, low gain tube in V1 to tame some of the brightness (according to the Marshall forum), so it's possible it's something like that too. Hmm...Any idea what brand it is? If it's a JJ, then I can understand that (except the JJs are pretty high gain, so maybe not) While they're the lowest noise of any other 12AX7 I've used, I don't like them in the V1 position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 No idea, sorry. The issue with the V1 in that design is that it's the first valve stage for both channels, and the gain stage for the red channel. As a result, if you try to tame the red channel by subbing in a 12AU7 for example, it kills the gain on the green channel so you still have the differential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Luke Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Fair enough - I suppose you don't have to worry about matched power tubes with this amp at least. I'm guessing the yellow label is graded as low noise or something. Is this the one closest to the input jack? If so, you could try replacing this with the tung sol 12AX7 Yeah it is probably a better tube as the yellow one is definitely V1. I guess we'll see what type of tube it is based on how it compares to the tung-sol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 No idea, sorry. The issue with the V1 in that design is that it's the first valve stage for both channels, and the gain stage for the red channel. As a result, if you try to tame the red channel by subbing in a 12AU7 for example, it kills the gain on the green channel so you still have the differential. That just reminded me of something that might be of interest. Are you familiar with the 12DW7? Because one half is supposedly 12AX7, and the other 12AU7. Only thing is that I'm not sure which way V1 is wired on the DSL, but even if it's the wrong way around, I'm guessing you can easily rewire the V1 socket. Or maybe I'm looking at this the wrong way. Yeah it is probably a better tube as the yellow one is definitely V1. I guess we'll see what type of tube it is based on how it compares to the tung-sol! Yeah that makes sense. I'd keep the Chinese ones in V2 and V3 if they're working properly though - V1 has the biggest effect on the sound. Unless it's an amp like the 6100/6101, then things get confusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Luke Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 That just reminded me of something that might be of interest. Are you familiar with the 12DW7? Because one half is supposedly 12AX7, and the other 12AU7. Only thing is that I'm not sure which way V1 is wired on the DSL, but even if it's the wrong way around, I'm guessing you can easily rewire the V1 socket. Or maybe I'm looking at this the wrong way. Yeah that makes sense. I'd keep the Chinese ones in V2 and V3 if they're working properly though - V1 has the biggest effect on the sound. Unless it's an amp like the 6100/6101, then things get confusing. Yeah I don't intend on paying for more tubes for V2/V3 unless it was really necessary. Got the Svetlana EL34 in today. Initial reaction is that it sounds better but I'm not really qualified to explain how. Less muddy/dark maybe? I'll have to put the old one in tomorrow maybe just to be sure. Out of interest how long do tubes normally take to cool down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 So I'm gonna revive the string discussion a few days ago: My body chemicals corrode strings really quickly :/ Rotosound and Dunlop last less than a week and D'Addario just sound dull. EB is the only brand I keep coming back to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyjackk Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 I use EB 10s at the moment but only because they're more affordable than Elixirs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 I use EB 10s at the moment but only because they're more affordable than Elixirs. Yeah but for how long? Yeah I don't intend on paying for more tubes for V2/V3 unless it was really necessary. Got the Svetlana EL34 in today. Initial reaction is that it sounds better but I'm not really qualified to explain how. Less muddy/dark maybe? I'll have to put the old one in tomorrow maybe just to be sure. Out of interest how long do tubes normally take to cool down? Any idea what the original EL34 was? I'd imagine Chinese as well (at least that's what the bigger Marshall amps shipped with when I last saw one) The Chinese EL34s are actually really good. They don't drift nearly as much as the Russian ones, and tend to sound good for a much longer period of time. Slightly different sound though. And I'd say you'd be fine after about 15-20 minutes? Probably not even that long since it's a smaller amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyjackk Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Yeah but for how long? Generally 3-4 weeks before they start to go a little bit dead. Sometimes I can get about 6 out of a set if it's a guitar i don't play day in day out. I generally like a change at longest monthly regardless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Generally 3-4 weeks before they start to go a little bit dead. Sometimes I can get about 6 out of a set if it's a guitar i don't play day in day out. I generally like a change at longest monthly regardless God, my strings would still sound good after a week, they just get sticky and feel rusty as hell i can't do slides, so i have to change them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarJov Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Sorry I've never understood why people DON'T use Nano/Polywebs if they complain about rust and corrosion. In the UK a set of EB's is like 9 pound, whilst elixirs' are 12. I've had the same set on my Tele for nearly a year and they're exactly as I bought them, whereas EB's last 3 days until I have fingers that smell like I got to second base with a bike chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 I'm not keen on the way they feel, and as I already explained, I feel like they go 'dead' long before corrosion becomes an issue therefore the additional outlay is not worth it to me. Your mileage may vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Luke Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Yeah but for how long? Any idea what the original EL34 was? I'd imagine Chinese as well (at least that's what the bigger Marshall amps shipped with when I last saw one) The Chinese EL34s are actually really good. They don't drift nearly as much as the Russian ones, and tend to sound good for a much longer period of time. Slightly different sound though. And I'd say you'd be fine after about 15-20 minutes? Probably not even that long since it's a smaller amp. Not sure it says Marshall VLVE-000092 on the EL34. Tung-sol arrived today so I will do some swaps. The EL34s do sound different I think as you said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Not sure it says Marshall VLVE-000092 on the EL34. Tung-sol arrived today so I will do some swaps. The EL34s do sound different I think as you said. From what I can tell, it's the Shuguang/Chinese EL34B. Definitely worth keeping as a spare anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyjackk Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Sorry I've never understood why people DON'T use Nano/Polywebs if they complain about rust and corrosion. In the UK a set of EB's is like 9 pound, whilst elixirs' are 12. I've had the same set on my Tele for nearly a year and they're exactly as I bought them, whereas EB's last 3 days until I have fingers that smell like I got to second base with a bike chain. That's a good price difference tbh. EBs over here are generally $12 a set while Elixirs are like $24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 I get EBs for ~$4.5. Elixirs are like 9 bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottST Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Sorry I've never understood why people DON'T use Nano/Polywebs inorite I'm lazy and change strings whenever I remember, nano webs suits me fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 damn, nearly three years ago now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRncmYnpvIE If you listen closely, at some point during this video, you can hear @dickmovedom breaking his finger. anyone going to glastonbury or that eiffel tower thing? I've thought about the second one since I'm in the UK during that time and don't have to leave for another couple of days, but 1) I have no idea what it's like to get over there and 2) already have a night out with the ladz planned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthijs Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 No, hoping to go to Riga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Luke Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 damn, nearly three years ago now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRncmYnpvIE If you listen closely, at some point during this video, you can hear @dickmovedom breaking his finger. anyone going to glastonbury or that eiffel tower thing? I've thought about the second one since I'm in the UK during that time and don't have to leave for another couple of days, but 1) I have no idea what it's like to get over there and 2) already have a night out with the ladz planned. Shouldn't be difficult as a lot of airports probably fly to Paris. Even Exeter Airport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 I considered it, I do fancy going but not sure I can afford it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stocking Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 God, my strings would still sound good after a week, they just get sticky and feel rusty as hell i can't do slides, so i have to change them I have the same issue. Cleartone and Elixirs have helped make them last about a month or so, which is FAR longer than D'addario's (even though I LOVE the sound of fresh ones) and makes them just not economically viable. Been meaning to try out the coated D'addarios however, I hear they're good Also been gone a while so I got lots of catching up to do with threads here, Jazzfest was 2muchfun. RHCP is insane to see live. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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