james90 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Using oil in paper is, in my eyes, snake oil. They will eventually fail, and they don't sound different in this application to a regular film cap. That's another reason I was avoiding them. I also have this NOS one left over from my TGP phase (though it was intended for an amp rather than a guitar), and it measures REALLY far off from the value printed on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Yeah, I don't know what the tolerances are but they all eventually dry up and fail. As they do so, their values drift, hence if yours is an old NOS, the capacitance value could be anything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Witz Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I see. Orange drop it is. Yeah, it felt like people who love the PIO caps so much are old "vintage" loving LP guys I did kind of strip the innards of the guitar out to measure the holes and stuff. If you're buying new pots, make sure to buy metric (8mm) shafts, or else it won't fit. CTS doesn't have push pull metric, damn it @Witz: took a bunch more pictures of the cavity today, let me know if you need more Thanks, I'm going to have a look the weekend so I'll let you know then I just fitted CTS pots to mine and I rather bravely drilled the holes out to make them larger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Thanks, I'm going to have a look the weekend so I'll let you know then I just fitted CTS pots to mine and I rather bravely drilled the holes out to make them larger I'll probably get a reamer and try to make the holes bigger. Honestly I would go to a tech, had the local tech not charge ridiculous money. $90 for a set up, $60 for a bridge pickup installation, are you kidding me ;__; Girl's gotta learn to solder now. Any videos/ guides you guys find to be helpful? Also i believe the kill button is just the big gray wire connected directly to the switch, Witz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerd herd Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I just fitted CTS pots to mine and I rather bravely drilled the holes out to make them larger Is it worth putting new pots in? Mine are crackling a bit but I'm going to fire some switch cleaner in before I do anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Witz Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I'll probably get a reamer and try to make the holes bigger. Honestly I would go to a tech, had the local tech not charge ridiculous money. $90 for a set up, $60 for a bridge pickup installation, are you kidding me ;__; Girl's gotta learn to solder now. Any videos/ guides you guys find to be helpful? Also i believe the kill button is just the big gray wire connected directly to the switch, Witz Sadly that is how mine is connected but I'm sure something is wrong with the volume put grounding so I'll have a look at that soon As for soldering I find practice is the best I'd get some small wire, solder and just keep practicing wiring pots out of a guitar, I'm sure there must be some good videos on youtube, oh and I don't know what your reactions are like but if you drop the soldering iron don't try and catch it Is it worth putting new pots in? Mine are crackling a bit but I'm going to fire some switch cleaner in before I do anything else. Yes they are brilliant, much better feel and they are silent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Yeah, I don't know what the tolerances are but they all eventually dry up and fail. As they do so, their values drift, hence if yours is an old NOS, the capacitance value could be anything! Yeah I can't even remember what it measured at, but it was nowhere near what it was meant to be. I'm not sure when it's from either, but it's probably 40+ years old. I've actually built up a fairly massive collection of NOS caps for restoring amps and stuff, but I often have to substitute new parts in when it's too risky to use NOS. I'll probably get a reamer and try to make the holes bigger. Honestly I would go to a tech, had the local tech not charge ridiculous money. $90 for a set up, $60 for a bridge pickup installation, are you kidding me ;__; Girl's gotta learn to solder now. Any videos/ guides you guys find to be helpful? Also i believe the kill button is just the big gray wire connected directly to the switch, Witz Problem here is that there is no tech that I'd take these to. Last guy I used who had flawless ratings screwed up my guitar worse than it was before, and I ended up sending it to a Mansons anyway (not cheap with the shipping, but at least it got done properly) And I pretty much learned on my own. Only took me ten years to learn how to rewire a LP style guitar neatly Is it worth putting new pots in? Mine are crackling a bit but I'm going to fire some switch cleaner in before I do anything else. I guess if the contact cleaner doesn't sort it. Mine is still good, but I am slightly concerned about the toggle switch...seems a bit flimsy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerd herd Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Yes they are brilliant, much better feel and they are silent Might replace the pots in mine eventually then. Wouldn't trust myself drilling into a guitar though I guess if the contact cleaner doesn't sort it. Mine is still good, but I am slightly concerned about the toggle switch...seems a bit flimsy Got a can of servisol stuff and it worked wonders on my epiphone, so hopefully it'll sort this. The switch on my mbc isn't incredibly sturdy either. Still, it's damn good guitar for £500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Problem here is that there is no tech that I'd take these to. Last guy I used who had flawless ratings screwed up my guitar worse than it was before, and I ended up sending it to a Mansons anyway (not cheap with the shipping, but at least it got done properly) And I pretty much learned on my own. Only took me ten years to learn how to rewire a LP style guitar neatly Yeah, my "tech" with 5 stars Yelp review is incompetent as hell. Heck, he gave me back the old ASAT after 2 weeks for a "setup" with fingerprints and shit all over it. $90 and dude didn't bother cleaning the thing. 2 days later and a set screw fell out of the saddle bridge. One week and the input jack all fell. Alright, let's learn me how to solder! What tools do I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominic. Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Yeah, my "tech" with 5 stars Yelp review is incompetent as hell. Heck, he gave me back the old ASAT after 2 weeks for a "setup" with fingerprints and shit all over it. $90 and dude didn't bother cleaning the thing. 2 days later and a set screw fell out of the saddle bridge. One week and the input jack all fell. Alright, let's learn me how to solder! What tools do I need? A soldering iron, solder They're the basics really. Solder suckers and stations with handles to place the iron on and dampening sponges are handy too. Is there any specific wattage soldering iron recommended for guitar soldering? Genuinely don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stocking Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 A soldering iron, solder They're the basics really. Solder suckers and stations with handles to place the iron on and dampening sponges are handy too. Is there any specific wattage soldering iron recommended for guitar soldering? Genuinely don't know I build pedals and do my own wiring, I've been using a 25W Iron and it's perfect. soldering ITSELF isn't hard, it's getting the parts to stay where you want them to while you do so Just finished making a woolly mammoth clone today and the hardest part was getting the resistors and such to stay put while I got the solder and iron in position. I'd say just practice on loose wire first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I build pedals and do my own wiring, I've been using a 25W Iron and it's perfect. soldering ITSELF isn't hard, it's getting the parts to stay where you want them to while you do so Just finished making a woolly mammoth clone today and the hardest part was getting the resistors and such to stay put while I got the solder and iron in position. I'd say just practice on loose wire first. Hm, the internet says 40W adjustable should be more than enough. There's a helping hands tool that I can also use. I think I kind of found the stuff I need, except for one thing: wires (& maybe ground lugs). I know new pickups come with wires, but that itself isn't enough, right? What else do I get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stocking Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Hm, the internet says 40W adjustable should be more than enough. There's a helping hands tool that I can also use. I think I kind of found the stuff I need, except for one thing: wires (& maybe ground lugs). I know new pickups come with wires, but that itself isn't enough, right? What else do I get? 40W is much more than youll need to be honest but if you have other uses for it itll be great as far as I know that should be all you need - pups, solder, iron. the pickups come with the cables to wire it up so it should be all good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I use a 40w for wiring pickups and amps as it allows you to do quick work soldering to the back of pots etc. For building pedals, I use a 14w amp with a fine tip, which massively reduces the chances of lifting traces etc. I don't like adjustable irons as they're heavier, and I'd only use two settings anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 as far as I know that should be all you need - pups, solder, iron. the pickups come with the cables to wire it up so it should be all good. That's if you're keeping the existing wire. If I'm replacing the pots and whatnot, I usually end up replacing the wire as well, as it ends up being much easier (and sometimes neater) I usually use the old Fender type as it's easy to work with, but not always... When I had to replace the FF switch in the rust relic, I didn't have any spare wire, so I chopped some massive gauge wire off an amp transformer and used that It works and everything, but there is still a ground that needs sorting out (probably unrelated to that connection, but definitely related to my work!) I use a 40w for wiring pickups and amps as it allows you to do quick work soldering to the back of pots etc. For building pedals, I use a 14w amp with a fine tip, which massively reduces the chances of lifting traces etc. I don't like adjustable irons as they're heavier, and I'd only use two settings anyway! Mine is a 35 watt. I've had it forever and it seems to work fine for guitars and amps, but I do need to replace it, as the bit that attaches the tip is always loosening itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 That's if you're keeping the existing wire. If I'm replacing the pots and whatnot, I usually end up replacing the wire as well, as it ends up being much easier (and sometimes neater) I usually use the old Fender type as it's easy to work with, but not always... When I had to replace the FF switch in the rust relic, I didn't have any spare wire, so I chopped some massive gauge wire off an amp transformer and used that It works and everything, but there is still a ground that needs sorting out (probably unrelated to that connection, but definitely related to my work!) Yeah, I figure I'd replace the wires as well. You mean the cloth Fender wire, right? So I need... single conductor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Yeah, I figure I'd replace the wires as well. You mean the cloth Fender wire, right? So I need... single conductor? Yeah that's what I've been using recently. And yes, single conductor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stocking Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 That's if you're keeping the existing wire. If I'm replacing the pots and whatnot, I usually end up replacing the wire as well, as it ends up being much easier (and sometimes neater) If all shes doing is installing pickups she shouldn't need to replace wire, assuming the pick ups are new - but yeah if replacing pots too it shouldn't be too bad to get a foot or so of wire. I had assumed she was only switching out pickups at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 If all shes doing is installing pickups she shouldn't need to replace wire, assuming the pick ups are new - but yeah if replacing pots too it shouldn't be too bad to get a foot or so of wire. I had assumed she was only switching out pickups at the moment Nah, I was talking about pots & stuff If I'm going to get the electronics swapped, might as well. Been reading up on soldering though and I'm kind of getting scared. I don't like my old tech, but I'm not sure if I should trust any other tech closeby Gary Brawer is expensive and he keeps your guitar for like 3 weeks Been gathering parts though. Someone link me to the caps you use & some fool-proof soldering guides please. Current list: Gotoh 3-way toggle, Mojotone CTS 500K push-pull & 500K short shaft, both with 7% tolerance (I'm assuming low is good ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stocking Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Nah, I was talking about pots & stuff If I'm going to get the electronics swapped, might as well. Been reading up on soldering though and I'm kind of getting scared. I don't like my old tech, but I'm not sure if I should trust any other tech closeby Gary Brawer is expensive and he keeps your guitar for like 3 weeks Been gathering parts though. Someone link me to the caps you use & some fool-proof soldering guides please. Current list: Gotoh 3-way toggle, Mojotone CTS 500K push-pull & 500K short shaft, both with 7% tolerance (I'm assuming low is good ) My bad You should be golden. I didn't use a soldering guide, so I would google around, but maybe one of the other older members have one. I was just told to heat the components and not the solder directly - but I also only half follow that rule which is heresy but still works! What do you have the push pull for? neck pickup? I'd help with everything but that since I'm extremely unfamiliar with how to wire push/pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Nah, I was talking about pots & stuff If I'm going to get the electronics swapped, might as well. Been reading up on soldering though and I'm kind of getting scared. I don't like my old tech, but I'm not sure if I should trust any other tech closeby Gary Brawer is expensive and he keeps your guitar for like 3 weeks Been gathering parts though. Someone link me to the caps you use & some fool-proof soldering guides please. Current list: Gotoh 3-way toggle, Mojotone CTS 500K push-pull & 500K short shaft, both with 7% tolerance (I'm assuming low is good ) Yeah, lower is better And I can't really say much about soldering guides since I learned myself (and am still learning really) but I think on my last guitar I used these http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/Guitar-Capacitors/Sprague-Orange-Drop-Capacitor 100v, so they're a bit smaller than the standard ones, but it doesn't matter since they're being used in a guitar. You'll want the .022uf option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yeah, lower is better And I can't really say much about soldering guides since I learned myself (and am still learning really) but I think on my last guitar I used these http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/Guitar-Capacitors/Sprague-Orange-Drop-Capacitor 100v, so they're a bit smaller than the standard ones, but it doesn't matter since they're being used in a guitar. You'll want the .022uf option Thanks James! Yeah, I don't understand the 600V $30 Jensen caps. At all. Btw didn't know your Cort had a sustainiac I need some wiring diagram coaching too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks James! Yeah, I don't understand the 600V $30 Jensen caps. At all. Btw didn't know your Cort had a sustainiac I need some wiring diagram coaching too Yeah it does. Kept the stock bridge pickup though And you could take a picture of how it is now, but if not, the stewmac diagrams are pretty useful...though I don't think they have one for the cort style setup with volume, tone, and gibson toggle - closest one is the telecaster, but that has different switch wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stocking Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I need some wiring diagram coaching too If you give me a day or two, I might be able to get a good friend of mine from the old UG gang to draw a quick diagram up of it, he's quite the electrical afficionado and has helped me many times. by the way, has anyone figured out what songs Matt uses the MBC-1 on in the record? or do we all just assume he either used only his Mansons or just only very specifically used it for a couple parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yeah it does. Kept the stock bridge pickup though And you could take a picture of how it is now, but if not, the stewmac diagrams are pretty useful...though I don't think they have one for the cort style setup with volume, tone, and gibson toggle - closest one is the telecaster, but that has different switch wiring I actually have a diagram from Timmy from BKP. Trilogy Suite neck, Aftermath bridge, coil tap push pull. Here Just got the 100V Orange Drop caps you linked me to. Thanks James. Can I see a cavity of anyone's Manson so I can see how clean the wiring is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now