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Yeah probably did because our posts were so close and we both started with S heh.

 

Have pictures up on a thread anywhere? I'd love to see it.

 

Yep I just so happen to have some pics sitting on my imgur account!

 

This is her Originally complete, the screen is hard to see lit up with all the light that was in the room.

 

 

M3AcPry.jpg?1

 

 

 

This is more recently after the iHeartRadio Gig in NYC earlier this year.

 

 

fqYwBfo.jpg?1

 

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I *think* that the Cort logo is lacquered over on the same finish as the neck.

If its tampo'd on, only might come off with some thinners which would in theory leave the poly neck lacquer untouched.

 

you talking about the logo on the front of the headstock or the back?

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I *think* that the Cort logo is lacquered over on the same finish as the neck.

If its tampo'd on, only might come off with some thinners which would in theory leave the poly neck lacquer untouched.

 

if we are to believe the picture in the upper left hand corner of this https://www.mansonguitarworks.com/assets/images/shop/products/main/main_148.jpg then the cort logo is painted on after the main matte paint is applied, which means there has to be a very risky way of sanding off the logo and still keep the finish intact. If anyone here is a volunteer I'd love to see your stuff modded.

 

oh shit, cool. Might be a cool project, but not one im willing to undertake at the moment with MY guitar heh

 

This is more recently after the iHeartRadio Gig in NYC earlier this year.

holy shit thats awesome! nice job with that, I bet its awesome :)

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james, thank you for the explanation! I'll be home next week, will try the staggered Cort ones out first and if I don't like it I'll order the HAP :happy:

 

Stocking and sidious, yep, I definitely was mistaken. Apologies to you both. It's been a long trip.

 

I'm not a big fan of the giant Cort logo myself, tbh

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This is more recently after the iHeartRadio Gig in NYC earlier this year.

 

 

fqYwBfo.jpg?1

 

 

Which show was the pick from? I know the drum stick was from Webster Hall... my drum stick :supersad:

 

After seeing all the non-Muse stuff that got signed, I could've just had them sign my iPhone 5 case, but chances are the signatures would've been gone by the time the show was over! The number on my hand completely vanished because of all the Muser sweat (mojo?) throughout the show :vomit:

 

james, thank you for the explanation! I'll be home next week, will try the staggered Cort ones out first and if I don't like it I'll order the HAP :happy:

 

I don't think they're bad really. If you want the black machine heads + custom hardware buttons, then it would probably be best to get the HAPs. Also, for what it's worth, I asked Mansons yesterday about the 381 HAPs (the slightly cheaper ones) in black for one of mine, and they only have the chrome ones.

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I don't think they're bad really. If you want the black machine heads + custom hardware buttons, then it would probably be best to get the HAPs. Also, for what it's worth, I asked Mansons yesterday about the 381 HAPs (the slightly cheaper ones) in black for one of mine, and they only have the chrome ones.

 

I've been looking at pictures and stuff, might go for the alum buttons actually. Damn it, I'm so indecisive. I see some chrome 381 HAPs on ebay for $70, or you can get the black ones from an Australian seller? ^^"

 

Looks like the Cort tuners have 2 pins (like Fender tuners?) whereas Gotoh's would require drilling for the screws. I need to find a new tech :indiff:

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I've been looking at pictures and stuff, might go for the alum buttons actually. Damn it, I'm so indecisive. I see some chrome 381 HAPs on ebay for $70, or you can get the black ones from an Australian seller? ^^"

 

Looks like the Cort tuners have 2 pins (like Fender tuners?) whereas Gotoh's would require drilling for the screws. I need to find a new tech :indiff:

 

I haven't seen the ones from the Australian seller, but $70 for the chrome 381 HAPs seems decent.

 

And from what I can tell, they just have those pins that hold them in place, rather than screws. It's possible that the Gotoh mounting holes could line up properly with the existing holes for the pins, but you'll probably still have to drill it a bit deeper. The mounting screws for the machine heads also snap in half incredibly easy, so it's best that the holes are the correct size

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I played one of these recently and was shocked at how good this guitar was for the price, considering I have two american fenders I think this was easily on par.

 

What are the MA-1 Evo's like stacked up against these? I want a guitar that is "heavier" and don't want to butcher up my current guitars. Obviously there is a price difference but if the cort is only marginally different I have no problem getting it, considering I fell in love with it in the shop.

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I haven't seen the ones from the Australian seller, but $70 for the chrome 381 HAPs seems decent.

 

And from what I can tell, they just have those pins that hold them in place, rather than screws. It's possible that the Gotoh mounting holes could line up properly with the existing holes for the pins, but you'll probably still have to drill it a bit deeper. The mounting screws for the machine heads also snap in half incredibly easy, so it's best that the holes are the correct size

 

I can PM you the links if you want to. I've been staking out ebay :$

 

So apparently the machinehead buttons for the Cort and Gotoh tuners have different fits for the shafts. Meaning that if I buy ones for the Cort, I'll be stuck with those tuners forever. :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

 

Anyone free enough to take the buttons off from their Cort tuners and measure/ take pictures of the shaft for me? :rolleyes: I'm wondering if they're the same size as Schaller or Grover shafts - there has to be some standard they're copied from, right?

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I can PM you the links if you want to. I've been staking out ebay :$

 

So apparently the machinehead buttons for the Cort and Gotoh tuners have different fits for the shafts. Meaning that if I buy ones for the Cort, I'll be stuck with those tuners forever. :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

 

Anyone free enough to take the buttons off from their Cort tuners and measure/ take pictures of the shaft for me? :rolleyes: I'm wondering if they're the same size as Schaller or Grover shafts - there has to be some standard they're copied from, right?

 

Mansons sells ones for the standard Cort machine heads? If there are different ones for those and the Gotohs, then that would definitely suggest that they're different sizes. Not sure about the schallers though.

 

The Cort machine heads seem fine, but it's hard to say how they'll hold up after several years. Apparently these are custom made for the guitar, so you probably won't be able to get the exact same ones if you needed to replace them at some point.

 

Pretty sure asking for shaft shots is against forum rules! :LOL:

 

It's not like you're asking for a pre-sale code for one of Muse's shows. Now THAT could get you in trouble. That's probably why the guy who was PM'ing people for feet pictures got banned.

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Pretty sure asking for shaft shots is against forum rules! :LOL:

 

:LOL:

 

I can PM you the links if you want to. I've been staking out ebay :$

 

So apparently the machinehead buttons for the Cort and Gotoh tuners have different fits for the shafts. Meaning that if I buy ones for the Cort, I'll be stuck with those tuners forever. :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

 

Anyone free enough to take the buttons off from their Cort tuners and measure/ take pictures of the shaft for me? :rolleyes: I'm wondering if they're the same size as Schaller or Grover shafts - there has to be some standard they're copied from, right?

 

The cort tuner shaft is about 4mm diameter... :$

 

Has anyone replaced the kill button with a 3 way toggle switch on theirs?

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Has anyone replaced the kill button with a 3 way toggle switch on theirs?

 

I have not, but depending on the dimensions of the hole in the body for kill switch button, and the size of the cavity in the back of the guitar for it, it would be an easy swap. Woudl be two simple small solder points onto lugs of a 3-way switch and you are set to go.

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Has anyone replaced the kill button with a 3 way toggle switch on theirs?

 

Why would you want that as opposed to the button? I've found the button far easier to use and less chance of breakage - though I suppose I play Buckethead songs far too often.

 

I can see if you wanted a simple mute toggle if you don't do the stuttering effects and stuff.

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I have not, but depending on the dimensions of the hole in the body for kill switch button, and the size of the cavity in the back of the guitar for it, it would be an easy swap. Woudl be two simple small solder points onto lugs of a 3-way switch and you are set to go.

 

When I ordered my custom spec'd cort from mansons I asked for a killswitch mod instead of the button, and they said they are not doing killswitch mods at the moment unfortunately

 

But how do you soppuse it would be an easy swap? wouldnt the wiring be different since its going from a button to a switch?

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Why would you want that as opposed to the button? I've found the button far easier to use and less chance of breakage - though I suppose I play Buckethead songs far too often.

 

I can see if you wanted a simple mute toggle if you don't do the stuttering effects and stuff.

 

I know on my mattocaster I went for the 3-way switch, and I prefer it. It is an ON-OFF-ON configuration so you can easy staccato just throwing the switch fully. It gives the benefit of being able to use it as a volume kill during guitarless portions.

 

I find it most useful when playing a part where I'm not just at 10 volume, and I've actually dialed into a 'sweet spot' for my volume. When I need to kill the sound I can use the switch without having to relocate the sweet spot on the volume dial without when I start playing again.

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I know on my mattocaster I went for the 3-way switch, and I prefer it. It is an ON-OFF-ON configuration so you can easy staccato just throwing the switch fully. It gives the benefit of being able to use it as a volume kill during guitarless portions.

 

I find it most useful when playing a part where I'm not just at 10 volume, and I've actually dialed into a 'sweet spot' for my volume. When I need to kill the sound I can use the switch without having to relocate the sweet spot on the volume dial without when I start playing again.

Yeah that makes more sense. I just find the switches a lot less sturdy and reliable than the buttons, but like I said I use the killswitch often for fast suttering effects, so that wears down the switch version super fast (eg, I'm on my 4th pickup switch on my homemade guitar)

 

But how do you soppuse it would be an easy swap? wouldnt the wiring be different since its going from a button to a switch?

 

It's the same basic premise of all switches - assuming you dont want on-off-on. one wire is ground and the other is the actual signal. you want to complete the chain to ground when you press the button so the signal is effectively stopped. You can do the same with a 2 position switch

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:LOL:

 

 

 

The cort tuner shaft is about 4mm diameter... :$

 

Has anyone replaced the kill button with a 3 way toggle switch on theirs?

 

Thank you! When I'm home I'll take some measurements :happy:

 

Does the guitar come with its own truss rod wrench?

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:LOL:

 

 

 

The cort tuner shaft is about 4mm diameter... :$

 

Has anyone replaced the kill button with a 3 way toggle switch on theirs?

 

Nope, but I'd keep the kill button. I don't think the toggles were meant to take so much abuse - the one in my MB-1 is pretty noisy now, and I've got another that needed to be pulled apart and the contacts bent back. Still doesn't work properly, so it'll be replaced when it goes back to Mansons next month.

 

Maybe I need to play less RATM songs, I don't know.

 

Thank you! When I'm home I'll take some measurements :happy:

 

Does the guitar come with its own truss rod wrench?

 

It doesn't actually need a wrench - it has the pinwheel adjust at the bottom of the neck, so just as long as you have something to turn that (which it does include from what I remember - it's just a long metal bit)

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Why would you want that as opposed to the button? I've found the button far easier to use and less chance of breakage - though I suppose I play Buckethead songs far too often.

 

I can see if you wanted a simple mute toggle if you don't do the stuttering effects and stuff.

 

Pretty much what sidious911 said. Plus it's more matthew.

 

Nope, but I'd keep the kill button. I don't think the toggles were meant to take so much abuse - the one in my MB-1 is pretty noisy now, and I've got another that needed to be pulled apart and the contacts bent back. Still doesn't work properly, so it'll be replaced when it goes back to Mansons next month.

 

Maybe I need to play less RATM songs, I don't know.

 

 

 

It doesn't actually need a wrench - it has the pinwheel adjust at the bottom of the neck, so just as long as you have something to turn that (which it does include from what I remember - it's just a long metal bit)

 

That probably explains why the switch on my Epiphone Dot is a bit temperamental. But can a kill button bulls on parade?!

 

Thank you! When I'm home I'll take some measurements :happy:

 

Does the guitar come with its own truss rod wrench?

 

Mine came with the long bit of metal too, and 3 allen (or hex) keys for some reason.

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