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Allex

Human Gear Animato

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Damn, that is going to be a tight squeeze but surely it will fit. Remind me to buy some of those DC Jacks though. They'll be nice for 1590A's. :D

 

Also, good work on choosing that mod to replace the useless switch. Seriously worth it. I keep forgetting I can switch out that cap in my prototype since I socketed it. mmmm

 

I've already worked out a few ways to save space. All I need is to be neat with my soldering.

Also, I accidentally bought 3mm LEDs instead of 5mm :facepalm: So I'll have to nick one from my school, I doubt they'll mind. :LOL:

 

To be honest, I'm hoping it'll replace my DBBM for my originals band, that thing takes up way too much space for what it does.

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Hahaha. I'd be tempted to nick stuff from my uni if the equipment worked :facepalm: Although I'm going to talk to a lecturer this week about lab access for the oscilloscopes but I don't go back until March. Will save me some money unless I find a decent digital oscilloscope cheap. :LOL: I'll just stick with simulations and paper calculations. :stunned:

 

Shouldn't be too difficult to stay neat. If I can solder with stress-induced shaking, you can do it. :p

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dave that looks like a desperately tight fit. I remember a big muff build I did in an enclosure that size and it was desperately tight. That was with the 3 knobs in a line at the very top, and the switch at the very bottom. I'll be impressed if you can fit it in.

 

Also, I think I've figured out what to design/build for the first test of the 3d printed boards in the new year. Some sort of fuzz face, ala peppermint fuzz maybe. Maybe do 2 versions, one silicon, one germanium, and probably give them some irish slang name.

 

Dirty Beour for the silicon one, and Gamey Beour for the germanium one. Seems legit.

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I must order one 3d printed board when you do them. Maybe in exchange for some dosh and enclosures which I can get for $2.50USD painted white, undrilled. Just going to have to set a screen print up. I can't help that since I really like the job that's been done with the printing.

 

Jaemz, the tension I'm feeling right now. How goes it?

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I must order one 3d printed board when you do them. Maybe in exchange for some dosh and enclosures which I can get for $2.50USD painted white, undrilled. Just going to have to set a screen print up. I can't help that since I really like the job that's been done with the printing.

 

Jaemz, the tension I'm feeling right now. How goes it?

 

Going to give it a try shortly. What I'm wondering is if the better build quality (the original is a bit of a mess to be honest) will keep the noise and interference (?) down. Definitely going to try with guitar as well.

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Today's going to be hectic. Well, just making the rest of the boards from now until Monday and wiring up as many as possible. At least every build so far has been seamless and works first time. :D

 

On top of that, finalising the prototype for the updated version which I'll have to build on perfboard for ultimate complexity and mojo. God damn that's going to be a challenge. Wiring that is going to be a nightmare also. Completely forgot to add the clean blend too, hence a nice wire connecting point to point. Reminds me of the MXR Phase 90's with the one resistor going over the board. :LOL:

4ZWNauc.png

 

And Jaymezzzz, you're keeping me nervous here. :LOL:

 

Matthijs, I'm just going to send my Voskhod to you instead of the one I was preparing since apparently the paint hadn't dried yet as I discovered this morning when my wallet and the base plate stuck together. I still cannot make PCB's as my printer is still broken and I don't want to make a perfboard version up for you so you can take my lightly used one which means I can now place my goodbye 24 on my board. I think you'll love the BMP though. :happy: Expect me to send it Friday, when I actually get paid from work. :LOL:

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Cool stuff, I'll see it in January. I'll have to maybe address it differently, as I'll be away.

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Too easy. :D

 

What's not too easy, this pedal. Not functional at the moment. Will have to debug it tomorrow when I'm not feeling so under the weather.

 

HWEmzjr.jpg

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And Jaymezzzz, you're keeping me nervous here. :LOL:

 

 

Sorry :facepalm: Got a bit carried away with that setup I was doing yesterday and forgot. I'll do an unboxing video for now if you want

 

....even though I technically have unwrapped it, but I can put everything back and pretend I haven't unboxed it... we don't have to tell anyone...

 

edit:

 

hopefully it will boost your sales. I forgot to mention that the packaging was bomb proof... much better than most pedals really

 

mBp792D8qQk

Edited by james90

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Now thát is a Wolstenhammer! :chuckle:

 

As for the click, you might want to do a mid boost? Really cool stuff.

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You can get a "mid boost" by turning the bass and treble knobs to the minimum and boosting the overall volume. To get a "mid cut", turn both up to max and turn the volume. that's the beauty of that stack, it's quite tweakable in that sense.

 

Added quotation marks for correctness

 

I can see the metal gang getting on this with the mid scoop style when both knobs are cranked.

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James, those some maudio AV30s you got sitting there? What do you think of them? I was planning on picking a pair up just for the price point.

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James, those some maudio AV30s you got sitting there? What do you think of them? I was planning on picking a pair up just for the price point.

 

Yeah they are. They were much cheaper than the others, and they were sold in a pair (unlike most others in the price range :confused: ) but they seem decent enough. I do plan to upgrade though.

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Yeah they are. They were much cheaper than the others, and they were sold in a pair (unlike most others in the price range :confused: ) but they seem decent enough. I do plan to upgrade though.

 

Yea, for $100 I felt they would be good entry level. I don't use speakers a ton anyways, I generally use headphones, especially since I upgraded to the HD 598s and the D1. Just need some new speakers to plug into the D1 so I have the option when needed.

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Still waiting on Jaemz for his verdict. (It matters that much to me on an ego building level, srs b33f!)

 

One of the guys over at Talkbass made a run of these too and he added a tilt mod to add more bass (I assume no one really wants more treble). Since the Bax stack I added to the next one was far too greedy. I had to get a bit inventive. Just added a low pass filter and mid cut/boost style control to a big muff tone stack. It uses the same dual gang pot as the distortion knob and this minimises losses whilst increasing the bass (well, cutting treble but it acts as such). Also allows for more of a mid scooped sound if I change R29 in the below pic to 15k or 18k (which I might settle on), also C1 can be 470p to minimise unique parts count.

 

7d3QUpa.png

 

One other plus is you can make a flat EQ setting out of this. That was completely unintentional too, was just pure luck. Sadly it won't actually be flat because the filter stages throughout give this pedal such a narrow band to work in.

 

Also, clean blend. Failed because of feedback. I'm going to go the op-amp route for that. Trying to go for the less is more method doesn't always work.

 

EDIT: Current design is down to 6 pots, no switches. I've worked a nice way to control the input cap for the fuzzier tone. Also, going to be PCB mount pots. 1590B enclosure with top mount jacks (I hope :D, tight squeeze) Going to be one hell of a build come time.

Edited by Crowella

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Damn. You should do this standard version, one with a clean blend, and maybe another standard version with TONAL IMPROVEMENTS over the original

 

And I've been spending all my time with this damn modeler, but I'll get to it today. Now I know how Niel felt about his valvetronix compressor...

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Right, my ink transferring isn't going well. 6 attempts and none are usable. There's always patches where it isn't transferring fully. Is there some trick I'm not getting?

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Ink transfer? Do you mean for the PCB? Are you using a laserjet printer?

 

I use magazine paper because it sort of dissolves in water and can be rubbed off gently. I apply the iron to the copper for a few seconds, place the transfer on flat, lay the iron down on it for a minute, move the iron around on it for a few minutes. Once that is done, I quench it in water and slowly start to rub off the paper. It isn't as good as PNP blue as far as transfer quality goes but it's cheaper and I've had better success with it.

 

I find it also helps to have a border around the PCB to get the corners to adhere.

 

Tried it. Sounds better than the real one and is more usable on guitar.

 

That is all.

 

Brevity at its finest :LOL:

Edited by Crowella

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Ink transfer? Do you mean for the PCB? Are you using a laserjet printer?

 

I use magazine paper because it sort of dissolves in water and can be rubbed off gently. I apply the iron to the copper for a few seconds, place the transfer on flat, lay the iron down on it for a minute, move the iron around on it for a few minutes. Once that is done, I quench it in water and slowly start to rub off the paper. It isn't as good as PNP blue as far as transfer quality goes but it's cheaper and I've had better success with it.

 

I find it also helps to have a border around the PCB to get the corners to adhere.

 

So you apply heat to the copper before you put the paper on it? Everything else I was already doing.

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Yes.. I find it adheres better like that. Although you can't reposition the paper once you've done that.

 

Have you also cleaned the copper?

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Brevity at its finest :LOL:

 

Nah I thought it sounded great. Maybe not as abrasive as the real thing, but a much better sound overall in my opinion. I will say that the tone controls have to be set COMPLETELY different to get the same kind of sound, but maybe that had to do with the fact that I tried it with the bass which has passive lower output pickups.

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