Crowella Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 That will be because of the much higher GAIN from the front stage. I've tried to match them the best I can. I'd also say that I am not even sure that all Animato's are the same. *shrug* My guess is they have as much variation, if not, more than my builds. At least you can get the same kind of sound. Who said silicon pedals suck? Not me The other thing is, the 220k resistor I replaced it with makes the decay a bit darker. That's where it's probably not as erm, abrasive. I can't use the real one after making these. Look at all my builders bias! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 That will be because of the much higher GAIN from the front stage. I've tried to match them the best I can. I'd also say that I am not even sure that all Animato's are the same. *shrug* My guess is they have as much variation, if not, more than my builds. At least you can get the same kind of sound. Who said silicon pedals suck? Not me The other thing is, the 220k resistor I replaced it with makes the decay a bit darker. That's where it's probably not as erm, abrasive. I can't use the real one after making these. Look at all my builders bias! Maybe that's why mine sounds the way it does. But then I'm running it through a 4 input Marshall which isn't exactly balanced when it comes to voicing (could bridge the channels, but the controls are still fairly sensitive) I don't know. It sounds better to me, but I don't know if people will want that grind that the original has. I tend to prefer silicon fuzz peddles for the most part for some reason. Does that make the a bad person? No, it actually makes me a pretty awesome person And what was the reason for that exactly? It sounds a bit darker overall - I ended up turning the tone control right up to get it sounding similar to the original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 I did it with the prototype. It was to just balance the booster section a bit more nicely. I found 100k too brittle with the silicon. I didn't notice that much difference with the grind either. Not anywhere near enough to make it a substantially different pedal, that's for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Yes.. I find it adheres better like that. Although you can't reposition the paper once you've done that. Have you also cleaned the copper? Oh ok. And yes, I was cleaning the copper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Crowella I watched your little demo video. I've always found the BMP tone stack to be great, but really greedy on output levels. That one you have there, although looks like a more precise one, I would bet will be even heavier. To give you an idea, if you set up a tone bypass switch on a big muff, you need a 200k resistor to match volume levels. Now there are other one-knob tonestacks out there, but I'm starting to think that for my own personal tonal preferences that just a simple high pass or low pass filter might be a better solution. I wonder would it be worth your while testing out something like the tone control on the valvecaster? Its simple, but I quite like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 The Bax in the video example was way too greedy (we're talking 20dB dips at the middle as opposed to 3-5dB). I don't find the BMP anywhere near as greedy, hence the mods by adding the simple filter tied to the mid style control of the BMP just to add that bit of flexibility. I considered doing the two simple filters as well but I need something to play with the mid range more here and modding the BMP stack works fine. The LPF is being added to compensate.. There is already a hell of a lot of filtering on the lows and highs throughout the pedal. It's got a very narrow band going through it before it even makes it to to the tonestack. Doesn't help either that the transistors in the BMP stage are really low gain (well, low for those stacks anyway). They are around 200HFe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 What about an opamp tonestack to compensate for loss in volume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Meh. I'm trying to simplify the design as much as possible. I can always tweak more compensation in the next stage. The BMP stack, even with these mods are pretty balanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Strange thing. Used the Bitmap last night at practice. Actually prefer it at the moment even with the draining tone stack. So does my guitarist. It got some very usable tones out of it, in particular, the fuzz tone when the AC filter was set to lo. It sort of bordered that characteristic Muff tone without the mud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 I have my PCB etched. It's rough and I'll have to solder a few of the lines to connect it up but I think it'll work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Tried it. Sounds better than the real one and is more usable on guitar. That is all. Brevity at its finest I would've written a proper testimonial if I knew you were going to use that! Do let me know if you want one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Only if you feel inclined, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthijs Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I'll try to do a video for you too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 I had 25 holes left to drill on my PCB and my 2nd (and last) 1mm drillbit broke. So I've to wait until tomorrow to get a new one, if they have one :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Crowella, I'm just sorting out my components on a sheet for assembly. You know the Silicon transistors I'm using instead of the germanium ones? Which one replaces which? I mean, which one goes in place of the NTE102 and the NTE103? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 2n5087 - nte102 2n5088 - nte103 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) 2n5087 - nte102 2n5088 - nte103 Fantastic I'm getting close to finishing this. Once my PCB is drilled (hopefully tomorrow) I can wire it up (again, hopefully tomorrow), drill the holes for the pot tabs and then assemble. Edited December 26, 2014 by Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 No problems. Also, those drill bits. Ugh. I use a dremel drill press now. Only snapped one bit and managed to make about 6 boards with it before that. ? If that is about the "I am so a..." then yeah, I agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 No problems. Also, those drill bits. Ugh. I use a dremel drill press now. Only snapped one bit and managed to make about 6 boards with it before that. I'm planning on getting a dremel for future builds (as much stress as this has caused me, I love it!) but until then the drills I have will have to do. I've ordered the 220kohm resistor to put into front of the transistors. It's this one, right? I also have the hole drilled for my switch. I was going to put in LED on that switch, put it would take up space I don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Yeah, that's the one to make 220k. Makes it sound a little darker but seems to get the attack down well. You can still use the 100k if you are impatient. The Dremel tool was the best present I received for Christmas, even though I got it early. I use it to cut the boards down too using the grinder tool, lel. The switch will be interesting. If you are using the 220k with the switch, it may actually make some difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Yeah, that's the one to make 220k. Makes it sound a little darker but seems to get the attack down well. You can still use the 100k if you are impatient. The Dremel tool was the best present I received for Christmas, even though I got it early. I use it to cut the boards down too using the grinder tool, lel. The switch will be interesting. If you are using the 220k with the switch, it may actually make some difference. I'm not installing that switch. It's to change the 2u2 cap to a 22uf cap. If I get asked to build one of these for someone I'll put on that switch as well as my one. But unquestionably in a Little Big Muff size box. I'm going to do everything in my power to squeeze it into the MXR size box, the big muff size would be easier in future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) The 22uF mod is fun. I used it on the prototype for the Bitmap with guitar and it creates some really nice fuzz tones. The next prototype is going in a 125B enclosure and it's down to 6 knobs, with a control for the 2.2uF/22uF mod (which will go to a 10uF for cleaning up). I've got to make the PCB up but I am still without a fuser for my printer. So over perfboard even though the stuff I have now with pads helps heaps. The 125B is deep enough for top mount jacks at least. Edited December 26, 2014 by Crowella Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Here's some pictures of my parts before I assemble them. My Dad found another 1mm drill bit so I was able to finish the drilling. Now I just have to cut it out and then I can start populating it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Tested the pedal. It didn't work at all. No LED or sound when engaged or disengaged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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