Cider Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 The Cort looks like it needs a fret dress, nothing more. Not that great though considering it's fairly new. The LP looks fine, they always had very low wide frets from day one, that's one of the reasons I don't dig them. Thank you Jaicen. I never played with that many new LPs so I had no idea the frets are flat from day one The Cort is a bit disappointing, right, considering how new it is? There seems to be a local person who does "Full FRET LEVEL done in the neck jig" for $100 - I'm guessing that this is the fret dressing you're talking about Jaicen? Plays nicely I guess. And yeah I'll take one later, but I understand that you generally want to raise the tailpiece just enough so that the strings clear the back of the bridge and are not resting on the edge. edit: a bit like this Thanks for the picture James. Wow, I never knew you're supposed to set the TOM like that. That action must be really high? I just screw the tailpiece all the way down and my bridge is really low, that must be why there's so much string tension against the frets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 The idea is the bridge is as low as possible without fretting out, and the tailpiece should be set so there only just enough tension on the strings to stop them moving around on the saddles. Screwing it onto the body is just going to stress the anchors making it more likely to pull the studs out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Thanks for the picture James. Wow, I never knew you're supposed to set the TOM like that. That action must be really high? I just screw the tailpiece all the way down and my bridge is really low, that must be why there's so much string tension against the frets No the action depends on the bridge itself. Mine looks a bit like that picture, and it's actually lower than I'm used to, but it plays fine anyway. And I thought that's because you put 12s on it. The idea is the bridge is as low as possible without fretting out, and the tailpiece should be set so there only just enough tension on the strings to stop them moving around on the saddles. Screwing it onto the body is just going to stress the anchors making it more likely to pull the studs out. yeah that But I don't set them as low as possible without fretting out. I just go by fairly standard measurements, but they're never exact. Still close enough to not really notice a difference switching between guitars though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 James, is the skunk stripe sticking up above the neck? I have that issue in an old neck I've stored for a while. Nothing a quick rub down and respray won't fix in my case, not sure what you'd do with yours given it's likely a poly finish? You could live with it, but i'd return it as you never know what caused it. At least I know it wasn't caused by the truss rod being over-tightened. Is this neck destined for the Bru-Caster? Got around to setting this up. Truss rod seems to be rattling... that or it's a ghost, as I've checked everything else on the guitar (inside and out) What do I do now? I could replace the neck, but this one is a different spec from the usual ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 My guess is the neck is junked, I'd send it Back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Fucks sake. Not what I wanted to hear. I would think something like this can be repaired though. One of those Ovations had a similar problem, although it didn't actually rattle. If I loosened the truss rod all the way, and turned the guitar upside down, it would slide right out Which it wasn't supposed to do... It's been repaired, so I don't see why this couldn't be sorted in a similar way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 The idea is the bridge is as low as possible without fretting out, and the tailpiece should be set so there only just enough tension on the strings to stop them moving around on the saddles. Screwing it onto the body is just going to stress the anchors making it more likely to pull the studs out. Thanks so much Jaicen and james. I had no idea the tailpiece was supposed to be set up that way. The quick guitar setup guide from Sam Ash didn't mention it Now that I'm looking at it, the saddles on my Gotoh bridges look kinda worn, probably from the incorrect setup of the tailpieces. 'll spend the weekend re-adjusting the 2 guitars so I don't mess them up more. No the action depends on the bridge itself. Mine looks a bit like that picture, and it's actually lower than I'm used to, but it plays fine anyway. And I thought that's because you put 12s on it. yeah that But I don't set them as low as possible without fretting out. I just go by fairly standard measurements, but they're never exact. Still close enough to not really notice a difference switching between guitars though. I did put 12s on it to mess around for a couple weeks, but I switched back to 10s after my boyfriend wanted to learn something. That didn't go anywhere though What does fretting out mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I don't think having the tailpiece too low would damage the bridge. And don't trust sam ash for advice on a guitar setup. Get this. http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Books/Guitar_Building_and_Repair_and_Setup_Books/How_To_Make_Your_Electric_Guitar_Play_Great.html and it just means that the strings aren't ringing properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I guess you could sort it, but ask yourself if it is worth the hassle, time and money that you could potentially put toward a new neck that's isn't doa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 I guess you could sort it, but ask yourself if it is worth the hassle, time and money that you could potentially put toward a new neck that's isn't doa? It depends. I thought the machine heads were tightened all the way (especially because I tightened them when I got the guitar), but apparently they weren't. Not sure if that was the cause though (haven't put the strings back on) With the machine heads removed, I didn't hear anything when I knocked it with my hand. Tried shaking it as well, but there wasn't any noise. So it's either just barely rattling, or it was the machine heads. Also, this is sort of cool. I wouldn't buy one though - really don't like how short scales feel... but the colour.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Wrong again. It's definitely rattling when knocked, but only with the strings at proper tension. I haven't adjusted it as it's got the proper relief, but if it doesn't behave properly, I'll have to look into repairing/replacement. But for now, it's not horrible and can't be heard through the amp. It's just one of those things. Like the varying bass tone in the descending lines in Psycho. It nags the hell out of you, but you're not bothered enough to throw a tantrum over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Also, this is sort of cool. I wouldn't buy one though - really don't like how short scales feel... but the colour.... Thanks James. I'll get the book next time I need something from Amazon. I like the new offset line! Might hit up guitar center this weekend to mess with one. Never played a short scale guitar before though. Seems like they're very reasonably priced - $500 is definitely a sweet spot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 It depends. I thought the machine heads were tightened all the way (especially because I tightened them when I got the guitar), but apparently they weren't. Not sure if that was the cause though (haven't put the strings back on) With the machine heads removed, I didn't hear anything when I knocked it with my hand. Tried shaking it as well, but there wasn't any noise. So it's either just barely rattling, or it was the machine heads. Also, this is sort of cool. I wouldn't buy one though - really don't like how short scales feel... but the colour.... Like a mini BruCaster. Don't like the shape tbh prefer the mustang/duosonic look. I am into a short scale fender, which is odd as I dislike the 24.75" scale on a LP. Guess I have different expectations from a sortie, but I do like them with 11's. Plus, Adrian Below and David Byrne innit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nerd herd Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 A jazzmaster the same colour as that duosonic would be very nice, even though it's a terrible colour. Also, a nice demo of coal tone ™ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZ8hnHFu0hI Hadn't heard of that T-Rex pedal before, but I want one because it can Stonehenge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 A jazzmaster the same colour as that duosonic would be very nice, even though it's a terrible colour. Speaking of jazzmasters, I think they just released this as well. https://www.themusiczoo.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/fender-limited-edition-american-special-jazzmaster-with-bigsby-electric-guitar-ocean-turquoise and yes, now that I look at it, it doesn't look like irn bru at all. maybe if you made a milkshake out of one, but that's probably not a good idea. But then there was that guy that used irn bru to marinate pork, so who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Jaicen, I think I figured out the problem. There is apparently a retainer below the 7th fret, which is to prevent the skunk stripe from being blown out. I'd imagine that is what's rattling, as the rattle is only coming from the center of the neck, and... it wasn't too successful in doing its job. So it probably needs to be adjusted. Not going to attempt it myself though - it requires removing the inlay: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Makes sense, looks like a relatively easy fix too odd design though, I've never seen that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Yeah it's a bit odd. I'm just trying to decide now... since there is a fair bit of damage on the back, which would more than likely require a refinish, would it still be worth it? I could just get one of these, but it'll bug me that the headstock isn't the same color, and it doesn't have the abalone inlays http://shop.fender.com/en-US/parts/necks/usa-telecaster-neck---rosewood-fingerboard/0993200921.html The ideal solution would be having Fender make a correct spec'd neck (which shouldn't be difficult at all) but I don't think that's something they usually do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Yeah it's a bit odd. I'm just trying to decide now... since there is a fair bit of damage on the back, which would more than likely require a refinish, would it still be worth it? I could just get one of these, but it'll bug me that the headstock isn't the same color, and it doesn't have the abalone inlays http://shop.fender.com/en-US/parts/necks/usa-telecaster-neck---rosewood-fingerboard/0993200921.html The ideal solution would be having Fender make a correct spec'd neck (which shouldn't be difficult at all) but I don't think that's something they usually do. What's special about this one?? Must have missed that. And bloody hell, that is an expensive factory made neck, not sure id lay down £450 for that. I think the neck is more trouble than its worth, unless it has some rarity or sentiment attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Went to the local GC. They don't have the new offset line yet :/ Tried the Strats again, and while I really like the soft-V neck, the ones that had that neck were heavily-lacquered. I much prefer the satin necks Also I saw a Aerodyne Jazz Bass so I had to try it. First time touching a bass, the string spacing threw me off, but that particular bass is so nice. I might save up for it before a Strat now. James, have you looked into The Stratosphere? They pull brand new guitars apart to and sell separate parts, might be cheaper than buying a brand new tele neck from Fender: https://stratosphereparts.com/necks/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 What's special about this one?? Must have missed that. And bloody hell, that is an expensive factory made neck, not sure id lay down £450 for that. I think the neck is more trouble than its worth, unless it has some rarity or sentiment attached. Nothing special. It's just an older U.S. standard neck, but with a black headstock w/ chrome logo. Different inlay material as well. I'd imagine the replacement would be just as good (or better). With the exception of the newer style finish, I don't think there would be any other difference besides the above. And yeah, not sure if that's because of the name or what, but they charge $200 for the MIM equivalent, which seems like a fairly decent price. James, have you looked into The Stratosphere? They pull brand new guitars apart Which is why I won't buy from them. And even if they're cheaper and the parts are genuine, I'd rather get it directly from Fender. I'm going to see if I can special order the correct spec neck from Fender. There really are only two differences, and I don't see why they wouldn't be able to make a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 it's scary how well these go together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMTQXb_yY5I actually, it's just scary to begin with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cider Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Which is why I won't buy from them. And even if they're cheaper and the parts are genuine, I'd rather get it directly from Fender. I see. I respect that. Is there a reason for wanting it directly from Fender as opposed to Warmoth like the IRN Strat though? Did you not like the Warmoth stuff? I was looking at Status' website and I saw these. Probably Chris' Glastonbury Globalist guitar right? Edited October 11, 2016 by Cider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I see. I respect that. Is there a reason for wanting it directly from Fender as opposed to Warmoth like the IRN Strat though? Did you not like the Warmoth stuff? I was looking at Status' website and I saw these. Probably Chris' Glastonbury Globalist guitar right? No the warmoth stuff is fine, but if the (mostly) correct replacement is available direct from Fender, then it makes more sense to go with that. And that's a standard model as far as I'm aware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaicen Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 Status is sexxy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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