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Human Gear Animato


Allex

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It hasn't gone past the schematic for now. I mean, I can assemble one on a breadboard soon but it isn't going to be accurate until I compare one part for part.

 

If you feel like sacrificing yours for the greater good, I'm here. ;-)

Edited by Crowella
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It hasn't gone past the schematic for now. I mean, I can assemble one on a breadboard soon but it isn't going to be accurate until I compare one part for part.

 

If you feel like sacrificing yours for the greater good, I'm here. ;-)

 

Interesting idea. Would you be able to tell what the exact parts are? I know you can measure the caps, but what about the transistor and IC?

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For the IC and Transistor, probably not. Best thing I can do for the transistor is get a hFE reading and use that as a pin point for what ones it could possibly be. The main thing is, given it's going to be a silicon NPN and a standard IC based off the Tl072 layout, those two parts aren't going to matter near as much as the caps.

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For the IC and Transistor, probably not. Best thing I can do for the transistor is get a hFE reading and use that as a pin point for what ones it could possibly be. The main thing is, given it's going to be a silicon NPN and a standard IC based off the Tl072 layout, those two parts aren't going to matter near as much as the caps.

 

I agree. I dint think it's going to be critical. If the values are right and the transistor has enough gain it will work

 

fair enough. I might have to sacrifice it then - only thing is that it's probably going to be impossible to find another one. At least with the animato, you could get one if you had the ¥‎

 

Are there any recordings of the Voskhod?

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fair enough. I might have to sacrifice it then - only thing is that it's probably going to be impossible to find another one. At least with the animato, you could get one if you had the ¥‎

 

Are there any recordings of the Voskhod?

 

In all honesty James, I don't think it's necessary to sacrifice anything. Pretty much any transistor will work in that configuration, it's just buffering and inverting the phase of the input signal, set to roughly unity gain. Nominal 500k input impedance, i'd expect any transistor with more than 150hfe would work just fine, so basically anything. Leaky Ge would be an issue, but it's obviously silicon. Note that it's inverting, so it will cause issues if you try to use a clean blend.

 

The opamp is an opamp. There may be some slight tonal differences using different designations, as it looks like its overloading the opamp to produce the clipping, so a fet input will sound different to a BJT input. HOWEVER, they will all work to some degree, so that's a matter of socketing a load of chips and choosing the best sound. Bear in mind, nobody knows what it should sound like so it could be a matter of taste.

EDIT: Also bear in mind that an opamp only has to meet the printed specs to get a TL071 etc designation. That is to say, even TL072's from different manufacturers may not behave the same when they're used in an esoteric manner like this.

 

Cap values look like they're printed on them? If not the small blue ones are all tantalum, so i'd guess they're between 1-10uf?

 

tl/dr: I'd say that it doesn't need dismantling just yet!

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I definitely need to show a Voskhod recording at some point. I can't believe how many people want my version of a big muff but here we are. I have a session to be booked at the same studio I've been doing an album in, I think it should suffice with this studio gear and the Ampeg with matched 8x10 cab.

 

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There should be about 20 or so shipping on Wednesday so yours is in there Cider.

 

I second everything Jaicen said. There was one tantalum I am not sure of. The other thing is those film caps, they are just guesses but from experience, you try and minimise the variety of parts. Older builds especially due to the costs. The IC and Transistor can be rule of thumb. Hell, the first demo I ever did of the animated was just garden variety transistors and it showed getting the majority of the sound is all about the other parts.

 

I can build one this week on the breadboard after shipping all the pedals. I'm curious to try it, even if I can't match it up. I don't know the pot values but I can take a pretty decent stab that the drive is 50k rev log and the others are 100k and just straight out of the Hotcake setup. I will keep my eye out for one.

 

If I did put this in a pedal, it would be worth making for a 3PDT true bypass and not inverting the signal, just likely another buffer somewhere, or even bypassed entirely.

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I definitely need to show a Voskhod recording at some point. I can't believe how many people want my version of a big muff but here we are. I have a session to be booked at the same studio I've been doing an album in, I think it should suffice with this studio gear and the Ampeg with matched 8x10 cab.

 

There should be about 20 or so shipping on Wednesday so yours is in there Cider.

 

:awesome: Do I get a small serial number too? :awesome:

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Trust me, after I get this PayPal address changed and confirmed, I'll pay for my animated right away. Hopefully it'll be shipped out at the same time as yours, James :D

 

And yes, I'd love to listen to a Voskhod sample too :)

 

You'll probably receive yours a few weeks before, knowing the luck I'm having at the minute

 

Cap values look like they're printed on them? If not the small blue ones are all tantalum, so i'd guess they're between 1-10uf?

 

I wouldn't know. The blue ones don't appear to have been altered, but the yellow film caps have had the values scraped off from what I can tell.

 

I can probably get the pot values without destroying it completely (seems like they hold the board in place, so I just need to loosen them), but otherwise, is it really just the two film caps that we can identify and get close enough?

 

Also, do you generally have to remove the caps from the circuit to properly measure them? I have one of those meters that measures capacitance, but I'm guessing I'd have to remove them from the circuit.

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Thank you heaps. That leaves only the tantalum (blue) cap with the 35 in it. No idea what tvalue that is. I'll update it all tonight when I'm home.

 

Edit, I don't know what the radial capacitor is either, the big blue one. Once we have that, I believe that's it.

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But I need more gains. This is only really giving a light overdrive with the tone and drive maxed

 

But then I guess I'm used to the insanity of the animato.

 

Ez done, just take the animato approach and stick a booster at the front to add a pre-gain stage.

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