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Manson Signature Guitars DL-1 (Delorean)


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I wouldn't trust youtube for something like this.

 

"Hi youtube, guitarman028429489 here. To make your action lower, tighten your truss rod all the way. That way, the neck has more forward bow and less relief, making it easier to play."

 

I haven't really damaged anything setting up a guitar, but if you don't know what you're doing, it would probably best to have a TRUSTWORTHY tech do it.

 

I've actually learned most of this stuff myself, but I've got a book from stewmac as well...managed to save one of my guitar's necks from a trick in that book.

 

That´s a good point. But there are some serious and informative videos on there as well. But by all means: if in doubt don´t even try to do it yourself. That should at least be the starting point. I also used a book to learn the tips and tricks. Don´t remember what it is called though.

And talking about necks. My Axis is pretty sick when it comes to action and relief. There is no height adjustment on the bridge itself so the action is pretty much set when the guitar is built and by adjusting the truss rod. For greater adjustments shims in the neck pocket is the only option. And since the neck is so called unfinished, being only bare wood treated with a thin layer of wax, it reacts to changes in humidity like hell.

Couple of weeks ago I picked it up just to find the B string touching the 3 first frets. Just because of a change in the weather...

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That´s a good point. But there are some serious and informative videos on there as well. But by all means: if in doubt don´t even try to do it yourself. That should at least be the starting point. I also used a book to learn the tips and tricks. Don´t remember what it is called though.

And talking about necks. My Axis is pretty sick when it comes to action and relief. There is no height adjustment on the bridge itself so the action is pretty much set when the guitar is built and by adjusting the truss rod. For greater adjustments shims in the neck pocket is the only option. And since the neck is so called unfinished, being only bare wood treated with a thin layer of wax, it reacts to changes in humidity like hell.

Couple of weeks ago I picked it up just to find the B string touching the 3 first frets. Just because of a change in the weather...

 

Don't those guitars have carbon fiber rods in their neck? or am I confusing that for the wolfgang?

 

The DL-1 has a satin neck finish rather than bare wood like the axis, so chances are it won't react the same way and need to be setup as often.

 

 

My finish has got loads of smudges on it now... looks cool in the same way the original did I guess

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Don't those guitars have carbon fiber rods in their neck? or am I confusing that for the wolfgang?

 

The DL-1 has a satin neck finish rather than bare wood like the axis, so chances are it won't react the same way and need to be setup as often.

 

 

My finish has got loads of smudges on it now... looks cool in the same way the original did I guess

 

To my knowledge there is just an ordinary metal truss rod in the Axis. Haven´t seen info on anything else.

My DL-1 isn´t smudged just yet but some pick scratches has started to show up. Think I will set it up today, adjusting action and relief. If I find the motivation to do it.

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The DL-1 has a satin neck finish rather than bare wood like the axis, so chances are it won't react the same way and need to be setup as often.

 

I didn't even realise stuff like that made a difference. Any other things or comparisons like that I need to know about?

 

I checked on my Pacifica by the way, and the strings are about 1mm off the fretboard on average. Don't know if that's average or normal or whatever? I don't have anything to compare yet.

 

Hope my MB-1 doesn't take too long for my Pacifica's sake though. I'm not sure it's going to survive much longer at this rate.

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I'm not sure really. Do you mean neck related stuff?

 

as for action, I have mine set at the 12th fret about 5 64ths of an inch on the bass side and 4 64ths of an inch on the treble side

 

i think some might be lower and play fine, but that's usually how I set mine up.

 

 

 

Oh and I discovered today that my DL-1 runs on two 9v batteries, even though it only has a fuzz factory... :erm: can fuzz factories run on 18 volts??

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I'm not sure really. Do you mean neck related stuff?

 

as for action, I have mine set at the 12th fret about 5 64ths of an inch on the bass side and 4 64ths of an inch on the treble side

 

Erm, what?

 

And yeah, anything like that really...

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I'm not sure really. Do you mean neck related stuff?

 

as for action, I have mine set at the 12th fret about 5 64ths of an inch on the bass side and 4 64ths of an inch on the treble side

 

i think some might be lower and play fine, but that's usually how I set mine up.

 

 

 

Oh and I discovered today that my DL-1 runs on two 9v batteries, even though it only has a fuzz factory... :erm: can fuzz factories run on 18 volts??

 

That's really strange, any idea how it's wired?

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That's really strange, any idea how it's wired?

 

I'll have to look again - didn't really pay attention to how it was wired exactly.

 

I know that some of them are wired to share the batteries though. I think my tele has the FF running off the piezo auxiliary power, but it does have two batteries.

 

Though I'm not sure why this has two 9v, and there's only one circuit in the guitar.

 

Anyone want to try running their FF on 18v? :awesome:

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I'll have to look again - didn't really pay attention to how it was wired exactly.

 

I know that some of them are wired to share the batteries though. I think my tele has the FF running off the piezo auxiliary power, but it does have two batteries.

 

Though I'm not sure why this has two 9v, and there's only one circuit in the guitar.

Maybe the second only starts when the first's run out... so the second's like a back up one.

Anyone want to try running their FF on 18v? :awesome:

 

No way. :LOL:

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Oh and I discovered today that my DL-1 runs on two 9v batteries, even though it only has a fuzz factory... :erm: can fuzz factories run on 18 volts??

 

Since there is already space for two batteries in DL-1´s with only one effect circuit they have chosen to wire them in parallel. That means 9 volts still, but double the juice and battery life. It should work just fine with only one battery in it also.

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Since there is already space for two batteries in DL-1´s with only one effect circuit they have chosen to wire them in parallel. That means 9 volts still, but double the juice and battery life. It should work just fine with only one battery in it also.

 

yeah thats what i meant

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Yes! Although one doesn´t work as a fresh spare. They are both drawn equally as long as there are two batteries installed..

 

So the two still supply 9v in parallel? I imagine you won't have to change them for a good four years. apparently the fuzz factories don't draw much.

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So the two still supply 9v in parallel? I imagine you won't have to change them for a good four years. apparently the fuzz factories don't draw much.

 

Yes that´s correct. If they were wired in series you would double the voltage and have the same capacity as only one battery. And probably fry the internals of the Fuzz Factory...

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Yes that´s correct. If they were wired in series you would double the voltage and have the same capacity as only one battery. And probably fry the internals of the Fuzz Factory...

 

makes sense i guess - i haven't really taken a good look at how anything's wired, but i'll take your word for it ;)

 

have you had a chance to sort the setup on your DL-1 yet?

 

i adjusted the truss rod and intonation on mine, but i didn't check the action yet. it seems to be at a good level, although slightly lower than the MB-1. might need to raise it slightly.

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Haha, 18v FF? *WEEEEOOOOOWWWWWEEEEEOOOOOWWEEEEOOOOOO...BOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!*

 

Since there is already space for two batteries in DL-1´s with only one effect circuit they have chosen to wire them in parallel. That means 9 volts still, but double the juice and battery life. It should work just fine with only one battery in it also.

 

That's really cool on the battery life front. I'd definitely ask for that on my custom. But as it's already going to need 3 separate batteries in it as it is, I probably shouldn't? :LOL:

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have you had a chance to sort the setup on your DL-1 yet?

 

i adjusted the truss rod and intonation on mine, but i didn't check the action yet. it seems to be at a good level, although slightly lower than the MB-1. might need to raise it slightly.

 

Yes I adjusted the truss rod before going away for work a couple of days. Quarter turn eliminated all the excess relief. Will check tonight if the neck has settled a bit and how things look now. Also lowered the action a bit. It feels much better now. Guess I´ll have to check the intonation also, but only after finishing the neck setup.

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Haha, 18v FF? *WEEEEOOOOOWWWWWEEEEEOOOOOWWEEEEOOOOOO...BOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!*

 

 

 

That's really cool on the battery life front. I'd definitely ask for that on my custom. But as it's already going to need 3 separate batteries in it as it is, I probably shouldn't? :LOL:

 

You´ll end up needing one of those gigantic battery packs they make for electrical cars!!:LOL:

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Been playing the DL-1 a lot tonight. Still love the fat and warm tone:) And James: the MBK-2 actually sounds a little on the bright side. Not very noticeable but definitelyg slightly brighter than the Nailbombs in my Les Paul. Different wood in the two guitars is of course a major factor, but still.

And slightly annoying thing I discovered: the volume knob sits fairly close to the bridge pickup and strings. I constantly rub against it with the pinky of my right hand while picking, turning the knob about a quarter turn from max. Guess I´ll learn how to avoid it somehow.

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Haha, car battery might be the kind of thing I need to be honest. Or some lithium ion laptop type thing, but they'd probably cost a fortune, haha! Probably best to stick to the 9Vs sadly...

 

And you have the custom hardware right opie? I actually noticed myself when I was looking at the pictures that it must be quite hard to turn the volume knob with it being so close to the bridge and stuff, and you seem to have confirmed that.

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