Jaicen
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Everything posted by Jaicen
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Lolol, no I didn't make a trip to the goat Café. I heard about it earlier this week, very bizarre situation.
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Mahogany is a species, so it's hard to say. There are Cedars that are in the same family for example. In terms of guitar timber, Swietana Mahoganii (spelling?) is 'the' mahogany used in old Gibson's and Martin's pre-war. This is sometimes referred to as cuban or Honduras mahogany. Post war Gibson used all sorts of mahogany, including true mahogany, khaya, and Brazilian (Macrophylla) the latter of which was used extensively before becoming near extinct. The actual type you have is very important if you're building instruments. Common 'mahogany' tends toward a tube like grain structure, which makes it very succeptibke to shearing along the grain. Its effectively made up of very thin tubeular structures so it's only really strong in one direction. This is very different to say, Ash which is very fibrous and interlocked.
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TGP indeed. Little Wing is the approved #geardemo song for all high end strats and Marshalls. And yeah, Sapele is one of the woods sold as 'African Mahogany', but it's not a true mahogany.
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Unfortunately, 'mahogany' can be any number of timbers sourced from Africa to Brazil.
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Silly boy, no fuzz on little wing. You can has Monterey toans though http://www.buyanalogman.com/Analog_Man_Sun_Face_p/am-sun-face.htm
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I'd be interested to see a pic of the guts next time it's battery changing time. Think I should investigate how it sounds with some genuine NKT CV7005 I've been hoarding for fuzz faces. They do soy d different in the face, though I Am actually pretty set on mullard OC71 over the other germaniums I have. And yeah, I've heard of poplar being used for necks. Apparently if its cut right, ie not flatsawn across the width of the trunk, it's very dimensionally stable. Its used in pattern making, so it must be pretty good.
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Well that's a start. I have been obsessing about the transistorsZvex used before switching to the 2N404 type lately. I'm fairly confident that the transistors don't matter, they all sound more or less the same, I thought maybe you could say if you feel the new pedals on the PCB sound different?
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Where's the like button? Do I detect some Piezo in there too?? Also, anyone here ever own an early perboard Fuzz Factory??
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I'd think it's ok assuming you don't have a very thick plastic finish, and the ferrules are only slightly oversize compared to the holes. Really you should be able to almost press them in by hand.
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How hot did you get them? A press is a better option I would think.
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They called it 'carbon effect' I think? Looks like the covers are etched and painted.I think it's cool. EDIT: James, that is still ugly, even if it's not made of plywood. I feel a strong desire for the 'bru now though..
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That's...unusual.
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Shhh...
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The oscillation is due to the relatively high gain, and low suppression. It's basically abusing a device meant for switching, to make it into a crude amplifier, with huge (10M) biasing resistors. These have the effect of raising the apparent input impedance and gain, at the expense of high noise. It should probably have some sort of compensation across the drain and gate pins to stop the high frequency (potentially ultrasonic) oscillations.
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:LOL:
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I've never played a legit one, but yeah they're not exactly low noise especially at high boost levels.
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Unboxing vid please, with aloof sounding voiceover and crystal lettuce.
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I had the same issue when I got mine. It plays great, once I adjusted to it I've started raising the action on my other guitars
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Yikes! They look great like that. How much are they again?
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There's plenty of gain in there, probably upwards of 20dB. I'd tweak the nfb to ground around the opamp, larger values should give you more crunch, but that may not necessarily sound all that pleasing.
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In all honesty James, I don't think it's necessary to sacrifice anything. Pretty much any transistor will work in that configuration, it's just buffering and inverting the phase of the input signal, set to roughly unity gain. Nominal 500k input impedance, i'd expect any transistor with more than 150hfe would work just fine, so basically anything. Leaky Ge would be an issue, but it's obviously silicon. Note that it's inverting, so it will cause issues if you try to use a clean blend. The opamp is an opamp. There may be some slight tonal differences using different designations, as it looks like its overloading the opamp to produce the clipping, so a fet input will sound different to a BJT input. HOWEVER, they will all work to some degree, so that's a matter of socketing a load of chips and choosing the best sound. Bear in mind, nobody knows what it should sound like so it could be a matter of taste. EDIT: Also bear in mind that an opamp only has to meet the printed specs to get a TL071 etc designation. That is to say, even TL072's from different manufacturers may not behave the same when they're used in an esoteric manner like this. Cap values look like they're printed on them? If not the small blue ones are all tantalum, so i'd guess they're between 1-10uf? tl/dr: I'd say that it doesn't need dismantling just yet!
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I agree. I dint think it's going to be critical. If the values are right and the transistor has enough gain it will work
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What have I missed?