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Neil.

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Posts posted by Neil.

  1. Crowella I watched your little demo video. I've always found the BMP tone stack to be great, but really greedy on output levels. That one you have there, although looks like a more precise one, I would bet will be even heavier. To give you an idea, if you set up a tone bypass switch on a big muff, you need a 200k resistor to match volume levels.

     

    Now there are other one-knob tonestacks out there, but I'm starting to think that for my own personal tonal preferences that just a simple high pass or low pass filter might be a better solution. I wonder would it be worth your while testing out something like the tone control on the valvecaster? Its simple, but I quite like it.

    MatsuminValveCaster.gif

  2. dave that looks like a desperately tight fit. I remember a big muff build I did in an enclosure that size and it was desperately tight. That was with the 3 knobs in a line at the very top, and the switch at the very bottom. I'll be impressed if you can fit it in.

     

    Also, I think I've figured out what to design/build for the first test of the 3d printed boards in the new year. Some sort of fuzz face, ala peppermint fuzz maybe. Maybe do 2 versions, one silicon, one germanium, and probably give them some irish slang name.

     

    Dirty Beour for the silicon one, and Gamey Beour for the germanium one. Seems legit.

  3. Hi everybody i'm new here... Anyway, i've been looking at Mansons for ages waiting for them to release a more reasonably priced MB guitar, what are people's expectations for this one? I am looking at buying one when they are released but by the time i have modified it with the custom hardware and sustainer and such it is pushing £1000 which i could get a John Mayer strat for and that's made in the USA

     

    Chevrolets are made in USA, Jaguars (or jyag wars) are made in the UK.

     

    Think I'd prefer a Jaguar.

     

    Actual relevant advice though, it's all well in saying things like "I want custom hardware and a sustainer and a fuzz factory and three chaoz padzer in it" but I always point out the same thing, do you really need those things in your guitar?

     

    Personally, if I wanted to have a guitar that looked like one Matt Bellamy uses, I'd probably buy the cort, but I'd only do the mods that I'd actually use. Example, I like the MXR Microamp, so I would consider having one of those built into the guitar. Does Matt use one? Nope. Does that matter? Nope.

  4. I always wonder when people use that phrase. "It's like songs of praise on steroids!" gonna be honest, doesn't have me sold.

     

    As far as muff mods go, none of them really make me sit up and go oh that sounds pretty nifty! The closest I ever got to some sort of a mod that I actually thought was useful was a variation of the wicker switch. Some of the older muffs used up to 3.3uF caps in series with the clipping diodes. The Wicker switch uses 4066 IC to change the values of the 3 x caps that are across the first three gain stages. They change from 27p, 1uF and 2.2uF respectively, to 247p, 1.5u and 2.75u. I had a little playing around with this, and you can get more of an impact off the wicker switch by making that jump bigger, more like the old versions with bigger caps. Those caps have a huge impact on the overall sound of the muff. My personal favorite setup was to go 1u, 0.1, 0.1. Something along those lines would be the mod I'd make.

     

    That and just make a black russian muff more gainy.

     

    /otpermaban

  5. well I've ordered 3 "reverb" units. A full size MOD reverb tank, one of the accutronics little blue plastic reverb tanks, and one of those belton ones. The plan is to use an ALMOST identical drive/recovery circuit, only making ammendments to account for input/output impedance, and then test the results side by side. I also like the feedback control you occasionally see on reverbs. So I guess the plan is to have controls for Gain, Tone, Feedback and Output. Keep it fairy simple I think.

  6. I think using perfboard/padboard or other prototype board only really works if it's going to be a tiny tiny circuit. I remember when I had a look at my old ohnoho blowing up, it was REALLY tiny, so perfboard made sense. But right now, I'm working on two projects that would both need printed circuit boards realistically. The first is a PNP based big muff (as you may know, this usually means positive ground PSU, unless you flip the polarity of the whole circuit, which I'm doing. Sounds good on breadboard!) and the second is 3 different reverbs (spring type, with a sort of built in compressor, so even if only some frequencies go a bit overboard, you wont get clipping).

     

    It's a very interesting exercise. I'm at an odd stage in my life/career where I'm just on the cusp of being able to have all my professional training done, and I'd love to have something music related as a side hobby. I've a few ideas for pedals, and I'm looking at 3d printing circuit boards and/or guitars. PM me if you're interested in having a chat about that. it might be something to interest you, but it'll be early february before my printer has the necessary mods done for the boards.

  7. That's very interesting. All the pedals I have lined up to build now are all prototypes. If one turns out to be good, I'd love to make a short run of 10 of them and try to sell them. I'm very interested to see how this pans out for you. Best of luck with it all! It's coming together very nicely, and the quality looks to be exactly what I'd expect from a boutique pedal.

  8. Trade for some peddles?

     

    Actual serious, because I was never able to build cannon.

     

    relevant to my interests... partly because I have had this sitting in my 'in progress' drawer for a while, and I want to try a new method of decals/box finishes.

    2h4hvno.jpg

     

    what kind of a deal would you be interested in? pm me for relevance?

  9. Well, it's not the jacks. I'm just trying to think of things it could be without having to investigate the actual effect circuit itself. I'm taking that as a last resort ;)

     

    It actually sounds like a short somewhere. I've heard of this happening when certain Phase90 mods aren't done properly, but it can also happen if the board inside the box comes a bit loose. Try disconnecting everything from it, undo the 4 screws underneath the pedal, and check to make sure the PCB isn't loose. If any of the solder joints end up touching off the metal case, it can short something, which can result in things like cracking, screeching, and various other unpleasantries!

  10. ok, so just a couple of little diagnostic things to check. Just trying to eliminate variables really. For all of these, it should just be guitar > pedal > amp. Power brick or not shouldn't matter.

     

    1. Without playing anything put the pedal in bypass (ie, effect off) and see if you get any crackle noise. You should also check if you get any crackle at this stage from the jacks. Do this by giving the cable a little wiggle where it goes into the pedal.

     

    2. Do the thing with the wiggling the jack but when the effect is engaged, and when you're playing nothing.

     

    3. If you turn your guitar's volume down (try it at a range from low > high) do you get the same crackly popping distortion effect?

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