hooglebug
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Everything posted by hooglebug
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it shouldnt be a problem. obviously i would have to see it to tell, but i've steamed off a few fretboards in my time. it might be that you'd be able to glue the original fretboard back down, take the frets out and re do it all on the original
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i didnt know there was going to be a replacement neck for that one. unless i've just forgotten too. i'll check my bank statements. and yeah send the pickups here if you want. regarding the sitar noises - i had that with a couple of the strings and couldnt work out what it was, until i remembered that the tuners are haps. i lowered the ones that were ringing and it stopped. trying changing the heights up and down and see if it stops it
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the neck is all sanded up ready for spraying (i still have to level the frets) and the body is almost ready for primer, just needs a bit of sanding. once the primer is on it will need a couple of days to make sure any fumes have gone, then the black can go on
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its just 43mm like normal. it might be because the necks a bit chunkyfied that it feels wider
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the poles are exposed, but because its worn they look black. you could scrape them a bit and they'd come out. they're not staggered because the staggered pickups would have been too bright what with the maple neck and brass nut and bridge
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im doing a neck for it. want to do them both at the same time. but because of the heat i cant do as much a day as i normally would. but by the end of this week i think they should be ready for prepping
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yup can do. i hope you like it after all this!!
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because i like it, and if theres a scarf joint it hides it because i think it looks ugly
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what!? i only got an email today saying they're reviewing my application. crazy. i think they just needed to show that i'd applied as a non vat so they can just send it as that. what a bunch of stupidness. as for starting another. i need to get this chrome one done, then i have the two jnrs that need finishing, but if you wanted to get things going right away then i could get all the wood i would need in and finish the chrome one at least, that way the wood will have time to settle in here
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i suppose theoretically you could. it might look really stupid, but you could. just for a normal chrome you have to tint the top coat a kind of lilac colour, otherwise it starts to look more gold then chrome
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to do black chrome all you have to do is tint the top coat. i bought some gold to see about doing an actual gold top finish (test first obviously). so you can have whatever colour you want
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i think theres too much paint involved for it to work on something like that olly.
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my eyes are hurting so im taking a break from my digital painting and peeled some more finish off. in places, the white base coat is almost 1mm thick
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when i first got it i contacted them to see if there was enough clear coat to be able to flat and buff it without going through and they said something along the lines of "we already told him that its not an exact science and it most likely wouldnt turn out perfect so the orange peel is unavoidable" its not really my business to go telling them 'you did this this and this wrong', im sure they'd say they have so many years experience and who am i to tell them and so on. which would be a fair point. and this might well be a one in a million thing
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i dont know what they're charging. the system that i got to do it was £155. thats for half a litre of everything.
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well i routed and filled the neck humbucker as he wants a p90 instead. i routed out to include the screw holes as it would be easier this way than filling them seperately. after i routed out the hole, i noticed the paint was lifting, so i put my nail underneath and tried to lift it, then i got my finger in there and just pulled it off. as you can see, it came off cleanly, exposing the primer. now, the primer is so thin that it doesnt cover the grain, which is its purpose. the white base coat is rubbery, as though they have used incompatible paints. in fact, there seems to be a sealer between the primer and the white. i put a bit of the top coat in my calipers to see how thick it all is. the top clear coat is 0.16mm. the silver nitrate would be hardly measurable even if you could measure it. the primer as i say looks really thin. but the sealer and white are 0.45mm thick. so overall, the finish is at least 0.6mm, probably 0.7mm including the primer. now for those of you thinking 'well that doesnt sound so bad', on James' strat body i made, i measured the finish that came off the tape that was covering the bridge posts. now this will have had as much finish as the rest of it - sealer coat, yellow, red, brown, then top coats, and it measured at 0.13mm
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this is a picture the guy whos guitar it is sent me which it looks like sims sent him. you can see the orange peel in the pic. the orange peel was not only on the clear coat (they hadnt flatted and buffed it) but on the undercoat too
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Well this one was from the same place you got yours I think
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the holes are the right size now. The jack hole wasn't before I opened it out a bit
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i thought i did but i dont. you couldnt really see much on pictures anyway. just imagine olly's but covered in orange peel, a bit duller, with bits of dust in it
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i thought people would be interested to see this, so i made a new thread for it. as some of you might well know, someone wanted me to make a neck for a body that they had chromed at a well known finishers. when the body arrived it was covered in orange peel and didnt look particularly good. but i made the neck, and when i screwed it to the body, with no more force than was necessary, the finish around the neck plate lifted. it was then i noticed that the clear coat was lifting around some screw holes too - holes which had had nothing screwed into them. so the decision was made that i would have a go at re-chroming it. first things first, stripping the old finish. i gathered myself, ready for a long day of heatgun and scraping. when in fact, all i needed was a little craft knife to dig into the clear coat, and a bit of pulling. it just peeled off. sometimes in lovely satisfying bits like this you can see a little clump of it in the humbucker route. you can also see that once exposed to the air for a while, the silver nitrate just rubs off, so no hard work there. the white base coat however (i will be using black as the system i will use requires it, maybe this one did too and thats why it didnt work so well?) is STILL soft. this is after a good few months. i cant remember how many, but its at least three or four months. so once the base coat comes off, i'll see what the primer is like under that, and if thats not still soft too, i'll just use that and sand it flat ready for spraying
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the split and the phase middle option sound pretty similar to each other (still different but not much), but both on together you get a much more wiry sound
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yes it is. push pull on the tone pot. which is what you asked for. i know you dont remember these things hehe
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