hooglebug Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Yeah and plus i'm using 16mm diameter and extra long pots so they will fit. also i got the binding sizes off stew mac so i'm not worried what kind of pots are they that they have 16mm shafts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 i bet he ordered 16mm pots thinking that was the shaft diameter. datasheet eyesight fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 The binding channel might be correct, but once you add 3mm of perspex, + 0.25mm ish of glue, your channel is going to be far too deep. Unless you're using a leather belt as binding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flump Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 i bet he ordered 16mm pots thinking that was the shaft diameter. datasheet eyesight fail. yea, most shaft pots are around 3/8" and 16mm is around 5/8" (I don't do no stinking metric). I think there will be issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 yea, most shaft pots are around 3/8" and 16mm is around 5/8" (I don't do no stinking metric). I think there will be issues. these are the pots i have! sorry if there was confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooglebug Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 that just looks like a normal pot to me. shaft diameter is about 8mm. the 16 dia. in the description looks like it refers to the base of the pot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthijs Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 that just looks like a normal pot to me. shaft diameter is about 8mm These aren't the pots you're looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 that just looks like a normal pot to me. shaft diameter is about 8mm. the 16 dia. in the description looks like it refers to the base of the pot fuuuck... do you think i could just get a bigger nut for the pot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 you could put a big washer under it. a bigger nut wouldn't touch the thread on the pot! you might well see the washer under the knob but atleast you'll be able to fit it. you could also fill the holes and drill new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooglebug Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 yup, what phill said. filling the holes and redrilling will probably be the best bet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 cool, thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_radlewis Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Are doing perspex on the back and sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Are doing perspex on the back and sides. Re: Your email. Yes the mirror is bendable, but it's pretty fucking hard to do around the edges. I did it a few years ago and it was an absolute nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 Are doing perspex on the back and sides. my wood's got a really nice grain and i payed to much for it to get completely covered with plastic but yes the mirrors just on the front! btw phill nice guitar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_radlewis Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Re: Your email. Yes the mirror is bendable, but it's pretty fucking hard to do around the edges. I did it a few years ago and it was an absolute nightmare. LOL.Sound like im in for some fun on mine. Do you have to warm it up or anything like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 hey phill, how did you get your headstock logo so effective on your mirror? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 ok - i need to buy the bridge pickup now... so. Manson MBK-2 or Bare Knuckle Nailbomb???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 my nailbomb just arrived - it looks sooo cool - nice matte black finish. will post pics soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 Hello everyone and here is is so far. Sorry for my shitty phone cam electronics and bridge to be installed shortly- lacquering at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 When you clamp the mirror down you should do it with a plank of wood or something that spans the entire body, otherwise the clamps areas will be tight and the other areas won't making the surface uneven. On the area you screw down the bridge and the switches and pots it will be very apparent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 When you clamp the mirror down you should do it with a plank of wood or something that spans the entire body, otherwise the clamps areas will be tight and the other areas won't making the surface uneven. On the area you screw down the bridge and the switches and pots it will be very apparent. oh right - thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 When you clamp the mirror down you should do it with a plank of wood or something that spans the entire body, otherwise the clamps areas will be tight and the other areas won't making the surface uneven. On the area you screw down the bridge and the switches and pots it will be very apparent. also phill, how do you do the cracks like the m1d1? i seem to remember you did them on a build once? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 hit it with a mallet before you glue it down. it's really unpredictable though, it took me about 5 sheets of mirror before i got something half decent so i recommend having some spares! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 hit it with a mallet before you glue it down. it's really unpredictable though, it took me about 5 sheets of mirror before i got something half decent so i recommend having some spares! i was thinking of doing it but then i decided against it after i smacked a screwdriver into a cut off and dented it... lucky i tried it on a cut off first hmmm makeshift m1d1 bodging aint a good idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord MFC Posted December 9, 2010 Author Share Posted December 9, 2010 some more pics... midi screen in pickups not yet in there just for show... the laquering turned out great and it looks amazing in person... my camera on my phone fucked it up... as soon as i get acces to a nikon i will be happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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