tomrulez Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Bitsbox really are excellent, next day delivery and they are very helpful and polite when I've emailed them about things. Very quick to respond also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 russel_a, if you're interested, i've a stripboard layout for the 1969 Boutique Fuzz Face. It's got two PNP's in it. The stripboard layout suggests AC128's, which were used in Fuzz Factories before the "ZVex" transistors, which people aren't sure what they are. In terms of PNP's, i've tried a bunch. Tom and I have both tried BC558B's, which give a very fuzzy sound. Personally, i think it's too silicony/clippy, and after trying BC107's, 2N3906's and ZTX500's, I went with BC107's, although they're EXTREMELY similar to 2n3906's. I'd be happy to give you the stripboard layout, and if there's anything you're unsure of, i'll give you a hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 russel_a, if you're interested, i've a stripboard layout for the 1969 Boutique Fuzz Face. It's got two PNP's in it. The stripboard layout suggests AC128's, which were used in Fuzz Factories before the "ZVex" transistors, which people aren't sure what they are. In terms of PNP's, i've tried a bunch. Tom and I have both tried BC558B's, which give a very fuzzy sound. Personally, i think it's too silicony/clippy, and after trying BC107's, 2N3906's and ZTX500's, I went with BC107's, although they're EXTREMELY similar to 2n3906's. I'd be happy to give you the stripboard layout, and if there's anything you're unsure of, i'll give you a hand. if it wouldnt be too much of a problem... Pnp's you say in a fuzz face you say my Fuzz face is more of a custom adaptation of a fuzz face, if you'll give me a second ill draw up some of the mods (at this very early stage) and your ideas on them... as a FX builder virgin i'd love any constructive criticism of my work so... when i upload the mod laden drawing you may rant away! i REALLY appreciate the help you're giving me Trad3Mark... i just hope others reading this will find it helpfull also... some Facts and information just NEED to be written down! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally bad quality but you can read it right? anyway, you've got the schematic for reference anyway... So, any problems with this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 ok, so the vero's attached as an attachment. i'm guessing you've some experience with circuitry, so, just so you know, the VR1 is a trimmer, and the red squares are track cuts. For track cuts, a little tip is to take the image into something like photoshop, flip it horizontally, so that when you flip the stripboard over to cut the tracks, you don't have to make the circuit backwards, if you get me? As for wiring the jacks, you know you gotta use a different type of jack for the input and the output? i think the input one is a "switched" one, but i know which part it is on BB. The Black lines on the electrolytes is the +ve. If you need the wiring details for the switch, there's a brilliant site, which has really clear schems for pretty much everything, from the basic DPDT true bypass, to a 3PDT true bypass with LED, Battery and DC Jack Hookup. And Input or Output grounding. I think that's the main things i've learnt from my first few builds... I Think i might make one of these after my Valvecaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Talk me through the jacks... they're different? why and how? also (my brain says that you've said this but im making sure) they're different jacks right? who woulda' thought the part that stumped me was the input-output jacks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theanatomyofguns Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Popey and Miss Blee C wut i did thar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/connects.html on this page, you'll see MONO and STEREO jacks. Whether you go for open ones or the PCB ones, is personal preference, although with the pcb ones, there's 6 pins instead of 3 (i'll get to that later). You use a stereo one for input. The reason you do this, is that there's 3 terminals, I refer to them when i'm building as Hot, Switched and Ground, although they're usually refered to as Tip, Ring and Sleve. when you plug in your guitar to the stereo jack, the switched part completes the battery circuit (You wire the +ve of the battery to the board and the -ve to the middle/switched terminal of the INPUT jack) and the power will flow. Thus, like MOST normal pedals, if nothing's plugged into INPUT, you don't waste battery. similarly, when you use a MONO jack for the output, it won't matter if you leave something plugged into it, it won't waste any battery. When it comes to the PCB Jacks, although they're bigger, i'm using them for 2 reasons. Firstly, they provide some shielding from grounding your battery. I set fire to a pedal of mine already because of an open jack.... bad times. With the PCB, there's 6 lugs, in 3 rows. When you use them, you're best off soldering the corresponding rows across, sortof like this: 1-2 3-4 5-6 ^^^^^ - this is where the hole is. So you solder 1 to 2 (i use about 10mm of wire ), 3 to 4 and 5 to 6. Then, 1&2 is the HOT (corresponds to input on the CIRCUIT/Switch) 3&4 is the Swithced (Connect this to -ve on your battery) and 5&6 go to ground (the ground on your circuit board). If you're still a bit confused, here's two good diagrams to look at: 1. http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_dpdt_std.gif this is the basic True Bypass switching, using a DPDT. Note how on the input jack, Tip = Hot, Sleve = Ground and Ring = Switched (-ve). 2. http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_ig_battery.gif this is the true bypassing i NORMALLY use. It allows for an LED, but, uses a 3PDT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/connects.html on this page, you'll see MONO and STEREO jacks. Whether you go for open ones or the PCB ones, is personal preference, although with the pcb ones, there's 6 pins instead of 3 (i'll get to that later). You use a stereo one for input. The reason you do this, is that there's 3 terminals, I refer to them when i'm building as Hot, Switched and Ground, although they're usually refered to as Tip, Ring and Sleve. when you plug in your guitar to the stereo jack, the switched part completes the battery circuit (You wire the +ve of the battery to the board and the -ve to the middle/switched terminal of the INPUT jack) and the power will flow. Thus, like MOST normal pedals, if nothing's plugged into INPUT, you don't waste battery. similarly, when you use a MONO jack for the output, it won't matter if you leave something plugged into it, it won't waste any battery. When it comes to the PCB Jacks, although they're bigger, i'm using them for 2 reasons. Firstly, they provide some shielding from grounding your battery. I set fire to a pedal of mine already because of an open jack.... bad times. With the PCB, there's 6 lugs, in 3 rows. When you use them, you're best off soldering the corresponding rows across, sortof like this: 1-2 3-4 5-6 ^^^^^ - this is where the hole is. So you solder 1 to 2 (i use about 10mm of wire ), 3 to 4 and 5 to 6. Then, 1&2 is the HOT (corresponds to input on the CIRCUIT/Switch) 3&4 is the Swithced (Connect this to -ve on your battery) and 5&6 go to ground (the ground on your circuit board). If you're still a bit confused, here's two good diagrams to look at: 1. http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_dpdt_std.gif this is the basic True Bypass switching, using a DPDT. Note how on the input jack, Tip = Hot, Sleve = Ground and Ring = Switched (-ve). 2. http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_ig_battery.gif this is the true bypassing i NORMALLY use. It allows for an LED, but, uses a 3PDT. LEG-END!!! Thanks, i fully understand now spotted any problems with my annotated Schematic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 i can't really read them as in, spot problems in them. Like...... i'd like to build one of these after the VC, and i know that the Vero one i posted has been verified, so if you're comfortable with using vero, i'd reccommend that. afaik, it's been traced from an old 1969 boutique one like. edit: tbh, there's a tonne of variations of it on the web... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 here it is again!!! Bigger this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomrulez Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 here it is again!!! Bigger this time Looks fine to me although I don't see your reasoning behind making that 100k variable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Looks fine to me although I don't see your reasoning behind making that 100k variable. why not? no, but isnt that the feedback loop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomrulez Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 why not? no, but isnt that the feedback loop? Because I don't think having it variable will do anything, the 33k or the 8k2 would probably be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Because I don't think having it variable will do anything, the 33k or the 8k2 would probably be better. it'll be variable, but INSIDE the casing... so i can fine tune the pedal (y) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 yeah, see i wouldn't be able to tell what you could change to do things. I can just build them well! on the plus side, when i get around to building mine, we'll have something to compare it too. another bonus of the vero one i posted is, with the schematic, you won't have to waste time working out the vero/matrixboard of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 yeah, see i wouldn't be able to tell what you could change to do things. I can just build them well! on the plus side, when i get around to building mine, we'll have something to compare it too. another bonus of the vero one i posted is, with the schematic, you won't have to waste time working out the vero/matrixboard of it. heh... true... tell ya what... when i finish this (and the "fluffy boar" shall we call it) for a friend, ill post some audio samples of the pedal in various modes, it should be good... gonna put a Pigtronix Philosophers tone after it so it should have 4/5 of the features of a FF but with a tone i like but yeah... im off now. will banter some more tomorrow... GL peeps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 GL with the build. Fortunately, Face clones can be discussed here, so keep us posted with your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 huzzah! pay day at 12am tonight! gonna order me some parts!!! Started on the artwork for the Valvecaster box a while ago. Red with epic black/white writing. Looks very....... soviet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 ...... soviet? ive got sythmaster on in the background, its epic, each key is allocated a keyboard note, im typing this message and a random noise is spewing forth! aaaaaanyway! Gl of valve build, thats a challenge i bet! gonna wait until summer holidays to start mine, parents are all "school work" on my ass... Gl m8! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 That'll be on the top surface of it. Probably something similar for the underside too. epic Valvecaster text is epic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomrulez Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 That's looks great, makes me wish I put I bit more effort into the outside of my boxes. How do you intend to get that onto the enclosure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 i put sfa effort into my last two. I know we can't discuss.... ahem.... certain builds, so i'll msn you pics of them if you like. On the FSB forums, there's an absolutely epic tutorial for going from acetate to the box. http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=6145 that's the one. I'm going to to that, except for all 6 sides of the box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 i put sfa effort into my last two. I know we can't discuss.... ahem.... certain builds, so i'll msn you pics of them if you like. On the FSB forums, there's an absolutely epic tutorial for going from acetate to the box. http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=6145 that's the one. I'm going to to that, except for all 6 sides of the box. Got 2 hours off, currently designing my m8's 'Furry elephant":happy:... its facepalm worthy at teh mo... called a "Buzz Muffler" (Dont ask!) colour scheme ... 'pimping' Green and Purple hopefully gonna use the method above, to print out teh text etc... Thanks Trad3mark! Lets see if i can get the computer scetches done today...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell_A Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Post deleted niiiiiiiiiiiice... ill quickly upload the "shitty" pic ... (if the school hasnt blocked EVERY website!) Edit, Here it is... http://s594.photobucket.com/albums/tt24/Russell_a/?action=view¤t=BM.jpg Its th e bassists design... direct all abusive attacks to him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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