Crowella Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Owch, hopefully you can smash out that many words. And emigrating? oooooo TIL that laser printer clear decals are the worst idea ever. Well, maybe not but they got completely obliterated in my printer which became more apparent when the yellow didn't print out and it turned into this. Also I learned to apply heatshrink outside and away from the enclosure. Whoops. So I abandoned the heatshrink for the rest which is a shame because it was looking so tidy. I'll plug it in and test it when I won't disturb the world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidious911 Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 I had issues with that stuff too... I found that steel wool between paint coats helped keep things nice and smooth. I also would put 2 coats of clear on, brush it back with some fine steel wool to get it smooth. Then I'd scrub the enclosure clean. Apply the decal with warm water with a drop of soap in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 In my case, the printer annihilated the paper and I just stuck with it. I didn't really care because it's for my board only. Will try the drop of soap next time though. I used 2000 grit sandpaper on the finish. Except for where I intentionally made it worse when applying the decal, the paint turned out fine. James, definitely do the Russian Big Muff. I just got mine working after I accidentally wired the jacks wrong (never used those types before) and it sounds thick and huge. Much, much better than the previous BMP I had. Recommend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 is the general concensus that the black russian big muff is the best? I'd be damn tempted to do a black russian germanium high gain big muff with tone and wicker, or the BRGHGBMWTW to give it it's shortened title. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 James, definitely do the Russian Big Muff. I just got mine working after I accidentally wired the jacks wrong (never used those types before) and it sounds thick and huge. Much, much better than the previous BMP I had. Recommend. Fair enough. I already have one of them, but the reason I asked was that it's for that bass amp I'm having built (screw having fuzz pedals built into guitars...) Apparently it's nearly done and sounds great. I don't know what version he used exactly, but it's been converted to tube circuitry somehow (for more organic tonezrodrigwtf) If that wasn't enough, it's got a clean to dirty blend control, so no LS-2 or anything required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Pfft, if you want a fuzz in an amp, you need the Acoustic Fuzz, DFA1979 style and also JPJ style! mW7SB47I0rY 8:12... Anyway, this belongs here. Tinkering with you know what by applying some mods that are useful. Actually designing it so I can build them here now, as long as I don't fuck up my printer again with "laserjet" waterslide decals which fried my printer's fuser in one print. No DIY printed boards for a few days. Tossing up whether to keep using the 3PDT's or go for a relay/logic circuit style true bypass. I honestly don't know since I can get 3PDT's for half a dollar more than a SPDT and might not be worth it other than that wank factor. Also, I may have mentioned this but I might have access to my auntie's laser engraver/etcher for PCB's and even cases, although I don't want to do enclosure engravings because it seems so cliche and boutique Those 1900H knobs too. I thought I'd hate them because of the low price but I am growing quite fond of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Damn he's upsetting some small animals with that thing (around 11:30) Looks interesting though. I wonder if they've built anything like that into a peddle before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Yep, someone has. http://moosapotamus.net/360+.html I really dig the 360 as a preamp. It's our go to selection in Logic Pro when recording demo's in our band (forget the software). My guitarist wasn't aware that I once had the 220. Just noticed too that I really don't need an on/off switch for the blender. Derp. That's one hole saved. EDIT: One thing I just noticed when looking through a massive list of BMP mods. I used 2SC2240's in my last build. They're actually not that high in gain (~200HFe). That might explain a bit more as to why it has less focus on the top end compared to the previous build I did. Still sounds fantastic and what I want from it but there we go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 How about an optional clean output too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 That is being considered. I was also looking at a blend loop but I don't want to make the circuit too complex that I have to add more to it to enable that. See how things pan out with this first build. So I've added a clip filter to increase the value of the feedback filter caps to roll off some of the highs which may warrant more use for bassists and/or guitarists. This is going to be a very interesting build. Going to start drilling the enclosure and painting it today now that I can go outside without worrying I'll be struck by lightning and/or melt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Tossing up whether to keep using the 3PDT's or go for a relay/logic circuit style true bypass. I honestly don't know since I can get 3PDT's for half a dollar more than a SPDT and might not be worth it other than that wank factor. I quite like the millennium bypass switching. Uses a dpdt and either an npn switching circuit or a jfet one, for true bypass with led. The tube screamer relay is a nice one, but it is a lot of hassle for switching wankery. Pay the 50c imo. EDIT: One thing I just noticed when looking through a massive list of BMP mods. I used 2SC2240's in my last build. They're actually not that high in gain (~200HFe). That might explain a bit more as to why it has less focus on the top end compared to the previous build I did. Still sounds fantastic and what I want from it but there we go. I've used a few lower gain BMP transistors, and from what I discovered, I've always taken 2 approaches with them. Either a: Increase the gain by changing the collector and base resistors. Increase the collector value and lower the base one for more gain. However, you do this at the expense of the bottom end, which can be addressed by looking at the caps paired with the clipping diodes. Or b: Use higher gain transistors. Any of the bc### ones that end in the letter c are the way to go. My favorite's are still BC550C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 That's a 3d printed solderless circuit board. It's very neat, very tidy, and VERY VERY cheap to produce. The 'Solderless' side of it comes from using something like copper paint or one of those copper trace pens, and the parts are secured either with a hot glue gun or superglue. However, you can also get electroconductive plastics for the traces, but the results of them are patchy. With this solderless method, the results have been very good, and I'm seriously keen to try it out. The benefit to all this is that the circuit boards will end up costing about $0.10 each to produce. That's not a typo, that's legit. And they can include things like mounting holes, double sided, tube sockets, transformer mounts, just about anything like that. They can be done to fit exactly into a case, and because they're plastic, you don't have to worry about things getting grounded against the enclosure. Expect test circuits in the new year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave. Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Holy.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Oh, and all my 3d printer needs is a new heater, and that's about $50. But right now, I know that if I buy that, I'll fail my professional exams in january. So expect to see the first ones by mid-late january. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 That's a 3d printed solderless circuit board. It's very neat, very tidy, and VERY VERY cheap to produce. The 'Solderless' side of it comes from using something like copper paint or one of those copper trace pens, and the parts are secured either with a hot glue gun or superglue. However, you can also get electroconductive plastics for the traces, but the results of them are patchy. With this solderless method, the results have been very good, and I'm seriously keen to try it out. The benefit to all this is that the circuit boards will end up costing about $0.10 each to produce. That's not a typo, that's legit. And they can include things like mounting holes, double sided, tube sockets, transformer mounts, just about anything like that. They can be done to fit exactly into a case, and because they're plastic, you don't have to worry about things getting grounded against the enclosure. Expect test circuits in the new year. Dude... That's actually amazing. Properly amazing. I'd like to see how that goes with more complex stuff. You may have orders. Also, you made me want a 3D printer even more. Don't know how you managed that. Just realised a huge plus with that. SMD. Considering TO-92 packages seem to be slowly being cut off from manufacturing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Yeah I don't see any reason why you couldn't use SMDs. The printer will print a minimum width of 0.35mm, and minimum layer height is about 0.25mm, but I'd aim to make traces a bit more than that hahaha! Plus, if you were really into having a beau-teek feel about it, you could do the circuit board in just about any colour. For example, red nylon for some sort of a huge mansion fuzz factory clone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Neil, you might be interested if you wanted to go into some larger scale building like it seems like I might just have to. I've just been looking at some manufacturing stuff in China since I have connections with a metallurgist/engineer that studied here and owns a business over in China. Looking to have knobs and even enclosures made over there if it is cost effective. Feels kind of strange because I can hear boutique guys all over squirming but that gives me some control over the design and I can put my CAD stuff to use. Even tempted to try making some custom knobs on the lathe before hand to get an idea what I would like. Never thought I'd be touching my mech. eng stuff again but here we are. Strange too when you get to PCB production for 3PDT switches. If I order in a massive amount, comes to around 20 cents a board. Reduced to 7 cents if I order 10,000. Also, looking at ordering the FV-1 chip after christmas for a reverb unit with a display screen. I'm just fighting over how to go about developing the code and the directions to take it. Might even make custom software if time permits to add your own presets and that. That's going to take well over a year to develop though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 That is quite interesting. I think it could be something to look into. The enclosure thing is a cool option, but I think the key to being economical about it would be to have a configuration that could be applied to a wide range of pedals, as far as drilling goes etc. The PCB one, I'm not so sure if I'd order that many, but again, versatility is the key. Analogman, for example, uses the same board for a load of pedals, from the sun face to the peppermint fuzz. Also, if this 3d printing thing works out, it would be my choice solution for the moment. By my estimations, a big muff sized board would print in about 30mins. You could probably do 10 or 20 in a day. I think there's potential to set up a little boutique pedal collective. It'll still be some time in January before I look into it more though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 The idea with the enclosures at least is simple 3 knob drilled, all the same. Then it's just a matter of changing the decal on each, hence the really basic designs. Few things I need to work on though, like if I can mount almost everything on the PCB, that's time saved from wiring. Naturally, I wouldn't order that many PCB's but it's amazing how the that economy works. Theoretically, I can do a BMP on the animated board if I want to with very little to edit. I really want to see how this 3D printing goes though. I'd be damn tempted to go that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Then suddenly, reverb, three kinds of it! and chewbs. but only naws chewbs because others are not chewby enough. and then look at these beours! The white definitely adds moar toanz! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Hnngh, those white jacks. Srsly nice. Let me know how you get on with that Belton brick. I think I'm still going to go digital with a reverb. For now. Phase90. Top mounted jacks in a 1590B enclosure. Not a perfect drilling job but I'm okay with it. The paint is a bit crap in the bottom left corner and the base near the switch because the wind was being a downright bight but other than that, looking okay. Results with the toaster oven were good too. 40 minutes at 75 degrees Celsius. Hardens the paint very well. Does turn it a wee bit yellow, especially considering I used Appliance White here. If I can get a spot where I can paint without wind or dust, I'd feel confident using this method. Pretty chuffed actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Looks great! Were you using inkjet waterslide decals before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowella Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Yeah but they always turned out crap. The borders help it along. I might need to leave a little more room after them though. The paint I used was a different brand and just took so many attempts before it even started to take. I'll stick with British Paints as they tend to be good. Might need to buy a spraying tent to do this in the future. Going to build the Phase90 on veroboard. Found a layout. *gulp*. I haven't worked on veroboard in years. Also placing the order through with the Chinese manufacturer I found. This shall be interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 I've seen a few inkjet decal sites that seem to do good results, although I'm also going to try out printing stencils once my 3d printer is back up and running. Unfortunately, I still need a new heatbed and relay, and I won't be able to invoice any of my current architecture jobs till about the 2nd week of January. Its not too bad cos I've my 2 professional exams on the 6th of January, but I'll also need to see if the solvents in spray paints will disintegrate the pla plastic that I print with. If not, I'll be able to print very crisp stencils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james90 Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Is there a place to get those plastic feet for the russian electro harmonix pedals? I found the dunlop ones, but not sure if they'll fit. might get them anyway, but I only need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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