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I gave texture with epoxi, then cheap chrome paint and granite effect spray finally.

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If you do a search, I posted some info a while back about how you can get it to crack more or less exactly as you want it to using just a simple jig.

 

Yeah, I remember this one. I guess you talked about this: http://board.muse.mu/showthread.php?t=88909&page=3

 

But I dont really understand what to do to get such a wide crack in all the lenght of the guitar.

like, should the jig be the size of the acrylic sheet?

backing or clear side against the jig?

I don't quite understand the way i'm supposed to apply pressure aswell. :(

I'll make a post when i'll get time to crack it up. All this story really needs to be clarified.

It's like everybody knows but nobody tells :D

Edited by Roi_Pigeon

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This should help to explain how it works

 

 

Example_zps60zhwf5a.jpg

 

 

 

Basically, the cracks radiate out toward the fixed point. Put that at the middle of where you want the cracks to be.

The key thing is to have the bending tool be rounded at the non-clamped end, as that will apply the bending force to the edge of the Perspex. It does require a lot of steady pressure, if you whack it, it tends to just snap. Make the tool just short of the length of the piece you want to crack, its a bit shorter in the image than it should be.

 

Edit: for correct image.

Edited by Jaicen

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that helps greatly thanks!

It's actually quite surprising it cracks in the way you show!

I would have expected it to do the exact opposite :LOL:

So a wide piece of wood, half the lenght of my mirror top and about the half of the wideness of the "spiderweb" effect I want.

Then I clamp my mirror top blank to this jig on the non rounded side. and apply the slowest steadiest pressure ever until I got dem cracks. :)

sounds easy but I'm in foetal position inside :LOL:

 

Btw, for the back of the body, I found something intresting, a "stone textured" paint. It is supposed to make any surface looks like a piece of stone! It's a blue-greenish grey that will suit the "ROCK" spirit very well. The sample shown on the can sounds very promising;)

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Yes, I was surprised too. It seems that the unsupported end gets bent and compressed, creating a pressure point. As you increase the pressure, eventually it cracks, and the shock wave radiates away from the pressure point. That's why you can't just shock it, you have to create the compression first.

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MASSIVE progress on the lil mirror tele :)

It's only my second done from "scratch"

and is already much better than my first one ever (the m1d1)

The woodwork part is waay more entretaining than all the finishing process. :LOL:

 

1424536058-progress.jpg

 

this place is so dead these days

Edited by Roi_Pigeon

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to anyone with an x/y pad installed in their guitar, can you measure the outside dimensions of the actual surround? currently designing a guitar where the exact dimensions of the surround are important and the only dimensions provided on the amptone website are the route / screen dimensions but nothing for the surround..

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Hey guys. I'm putting together a Jazzmaster with similar stuff to Matt Bellamy's guitars (Killswitch, FSK 101, MBK2 or a nailbomb and maybe a Fuzz Factory).

 

Does anyone know if I could use this switch as a killswitch?

 

41fG0W7FPVL._SX425_.jpg

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MB4FLC0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AJAB2GZZRI7N3

 

It's a momentary push switch. I know how to put in one with 2 lugs on the back but this one has 4. Could be problematic?

 

Cheers

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Hey guys. I'm putting together a Jazzmaster with similar stuff to Matt Bellamy's guitars (Killswitch, FSK 101, MBK2 or a nailbomb and maybe a Fuzz Factory).

 

Does anyone know if I could use this switch as a killswitch?

 

41fG0W7FPVL._SX425_.jpg

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MB4FLC0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AJAB2GZZRI7N3

 

It's a momentary push switch. I know how to put in one with 2 lugs on the back but this one has 4. Could be problematic?

 

Cheers

 

U can but it wont glow

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well anyone know how to make it work properly?

 

I'm probably gonna have 2 9v batteries, could I not power the led with one of them? I thought some of you guys had leds in your manson replicas?

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well anyone know how to make it work properly?

 

I'm probably gonna have 2 9v batteries, could I not power the led with one of them? I thought some of you guys had leds in your manson replicas?

 

You'd be able to run a 9V to the switch to enable the LED. Is that switch a momentary switch? You'll find that using it as a kill switch quite useless if it isn't momentary as staccato style Tom Morello stuff wont be possible. Have you used those switches before too? They aren't the easiest to quickly access since your finger has to kind of go inside them. Just something to consider before using one.

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You'd be able to run a 9V to the switch to enable the LED. Is that switch a momentary switch? You'll find that using it as a kill switch quite useless if it isn't momentary as staccato style Tom Morello stuff wont be possible. Have you used those switches before too? They aren't the easiest to quickly access since your finger has to kind of go inside them. Just something to consider before using one.

 

Yeah, it's a momentary switch. Yeah, I never thought about my finger going inside them. It's only £3.69 so I might get it to see how it feels. Is there any push button you'd recommend? Thanks for the help.

Edited by MattTinnitus

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Yeah, it's a momentary switch. Yeah, I never thought about my finger going inside them. It's only £3.69 so I might get it to see how it feels. Is there any push button you'd recommend? Thanks for the help.

 

I cannot recommend any personally, I only know what that one feels like cause the same ones are used for the Hold button on the Amptone MIDI. I would look for one that has a button that is slightly raised,

 

800px-Manson_MB-2_SE_Matthew_Bellamy_Signature_Guitar.jpg see how that kill switch is a slightly raised button? I'd assume a little easier to staccato with.

 

Another option is the Gibson 3-way toggle as a kill switch, works as ON OFF ON. Can still get some great staccato kill switch stuff, but can also function as a longer term volume mute instead of having to roll right off the volume by just leaving the switch in the middle position. A momentary push switch has no way of doing that. Just food for thought.

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I cannot recommend any personally, I only know what that one feels like cause the same ones are used for the Hold button on the Amptone MIDI. I would look for one that has a button that is slightly raised,

 

800px-Manson_MB-2_SE_Matthew_Bellamy_Signature_Guitar.jpg see how that kill switch is a slightly raised button? I'd assume a little easier to staccato with.

 

Another option is the Gibson 3-way toggle as a kill switch, works as ON OFF ON. Can still get some great staccato kill switch stuff, but can also function as a longer term volume mute instead of having to roll right off the volume by just leaving the switch in the middle position. A momentary push switch has no way of doing that. Just food for thought.

 

I'd seen it was the same kind of one that is in the amptone midi kit. I was going to go for a toggle switch initially but I think the button would look a lot better on a Jazzmaster, and I can just make do with the volume knob or tuner pedal if I really needed to kill the sound.

I've found this one that looks like the right sort of thing:

41AwOKcAidL._SX425_.jpg

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I've ordered that RadioWorld one and I'm gonna just see what it's like. I've been looking about and I think Roland sells a pack of spares for one of its keyboards that includes those momentary switches so I'm guessing Mansons just ordered them from Roland in bulk.

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the moment when you finish setting up a guitar and realize the shim fell out when you had the neck off... fucks sake

 

Jaicen, is there a way I can tell whether or not the neck has enough of an angle without it?

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Run a straight edge to the bridge at lowest setting. If you have clearance underneath you're ok.

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Run a straight edge to the bridge at lowest setting. If you have clearance underneath you're ok.

 

If I understand correctly, do you mean setting the bridge for the desired action, and seeing if there's a gap between the bottom of the bridge and the top of the body?

 

The bass side could go a bit lower, and there's a bit of room to adjust, but I figure it will only really be where I want if the bridge is pretty much flat against the body.

 

Also, any updates on those things? PM me :ninja:

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That's pretty much it yeah, if you an get the action ok then it's all fine. I like to have a 5mm gap minimum under bridge with the strings resting on the frets.

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