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well, the londax also has it's neck set in only a little. it all looks good. now i just have to figure out which blade on my jigsaw is for wood.... would the teeth on it be finer and close together, or rougher and far apart?

 

Finer blades tend to be for metal and plastic.

Your problem is do to with the setting of the net. The only way you could solve it would be by using a 24 fret ibanez neck or something to push the nut further away from the body. You're high fret access is going to be pretty poor past the 17th fret otherwise.

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I've just looked into this and on the real londaxes the bridge is positioned very close to the edge of the body also the top horn extends well past the 12th fret so by the looks of things your measurements are right, I'd wait for someone who has or has played a londaxe to post but I think everything is all right.

 

On second thoughts I think your body is a little bit shorter than a real londaxe, compare this picture to yours on the previous page:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3295/2854526332_834cdc41b1.jpg

 

You called?

 

Yes, I'd say his shape is a bit shorter - have this head-on picture though, for reference.

 

2956456317_fee8bce6b3.jpg

 

also, one thing to note is the neck joint style..

 

2952318029_0d4d7583ef.jpg

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ok... so i think i'm doing it rong...

 

my jigsaw has a coarse blade, and is set to medium speed, yet if i cut in by about 5mm, the blade seems to get VERY hot. am i doin it rite?

 

How thick are you cutting through? Are you cutting a template or the actual plank? Because cutting a 40mm plank with a jigsaw is a bad idea!

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Because cutting a 40mm plank with a jigsaw is a bad idea!

 

define "bad idea"? :LOL:

 

well, i am using the jigsaw for it, but in a round about sort of way. It's a slower process, but i'm cutting diagonally with a normal saw, and then straightening it up with the jigsaw. it's actually going well, albeit very slow. i'm just in for a cup of tea and an update :D

 

i'm cutting it VERY rough at the moment, about 10mm from the actual line of the body, then after, i'll cut a bit closer (2-5mm from the line) then sand it to perfection. if i leave it at 2-5mm, then it'll also bulk out the body a bit, making the earlier bridge problem less of a problem.

 

pics at rough cut stage, anyone?

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ok, so here goes. Day 1 of my first build, and already, i've hit a MAJOR issue. I'm measuring out the template on the wood for the londaxe, and i've checked and rechecked this, but i have a problem with the bridge. When i measured it, using the calculator from stewmac, it looks like the bridge is REALLY far down the body. To measure it, i held the neck in place, and measured 25.5" from the nut (as per the stew mac site) and drew a line (I've highlighted this line in red).

 

 

 

It's more of an aesthetic detail than a technical problem, just wondering if any one has any suggestions. Right now, as this is my first build, i'm thinking, stop being so over cautious about this and cut the wood.

You could just make the neck longer, or make it a short scale.

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i think i'll stick with how it is fernando. at the end of the day, it is a first build, and i doubt that'll be the only thing to go wrong!! lol!

 

edit:

probably should musematt, but i'll just post it here instead.

 

edit mk II:

ok, so here's 3 pics, all nicely resized. Firstly, this is a mid-rough-cutting pic, showing my fancy workspace!! oooh! my cutting has been getting better as i progressed, but here's about 30 mins into it:

 

2qdaa34.jpg

 

and just for tom, here's a hardcore floor. pure, uncovered concrete. complete with leaves blown in from outside. filth

 

 

2qu0obk.jpg

 

 

and finally (for now) the first round of cutting :D you can actually see it starting to be a londaxe. or at least some sort of guitar....

 

mbu7o2.jpg

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well i cut it a bit closer. the closest is about 1mm from the line, and the furthest is 7 or 8 at the horn. I'm heading down to b&q in about 45 mins to get chissels, coarse sandpaper, a spray primer, a clear sealer (does spray or paint on make any difference with the sealer?) and some other coat for the main colour. im not sure which to go for between the following:

matte white

chance the plasticote "metallic", "super brilliant metallic" or "chrome enamel" sprays

 

SUGGESTIONS VERY APPRECIATED!!

 

i'm bringing some balsa wood to test out those sprays if i can. till then, here's a pic of the closer cut. it's still VERY rough, particularly at the horn, but at least it's looking like less of a country, and more of a londaxe.

 

350p6c8.jpg

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just back from b&q. Got some stanley chissels, coarse sandpaper, a white spray primer, and a matte white spray. unfortunately, they didn't have any clear sealers, so i'll be ok for the moment, and i can get that later. it's sandin time! :D

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well the annoyances continue. i spent today scraping the finish off the glitter one. i took a little bit off from where the bridge will be and it was soft all the way down, from clear through colour and even the primer. so its all gone ready to be done again.

 

im going to be using two pack clear this time. which of course melts craft glitter, so iv got some automotive holographic metal flake. the fumes will probably kill me, but at least the guitar will be hard!

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