JJ Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 thanks, hopefully by the end of the week it'll be fully routed with the floyd fixed in place. tis going to be an awesome axe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musecasters Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Yeah I know what you mean, I was looking at the Kaoss Manson and there is a slight gap between them though. Almost wood splittingly fine. I'm not sure whether to go for one space or the gap. go for wood between the pickups, the wood should be strong enough at 3-4mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 A word of caution. When I first made my Kaoss with the dual p90s, it looked really awkward spacing wise with the pickup. I found out that it looked much cleaner and neater when you "connected" the routes. By moving them close enough to share the same space, while having enough room for both pickups, youll get a cleaner look. do you mean in the same route itself? like if you look at phill's picture here, you can see that it looks like he has one route for the 2 p90's marked out, except with a gap in the middle. I'd love to use p90's in that tele build i'm planning like. But what i was wondering is, could i just make one big route with nothing in between them, or, seeing as how it'll all be painted anyway, what about AFTER routing one big hole, cut something like balsa wood to size and slotting it in? i know balsa is dreadfuly weak, but if it's painted, sealed etc, it should hold up. Balsa or nothing, that is the question... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 do you mean in the same route itself? like if you look at phill's picture here, you can see that it looks like he has one route for the 2 p90's marked out, except with a gap in the middle. I'd love to use p90's in that tele build i'm planning like. But what i was wondering is, could i just make one big route with nothing in between them, or, seeing as how it'll all be painted anyway, what about AFTER routing one big hole, cut something like balsa wood to size and slotting it in? i know balsa is dreadfuly weak, but if it's painted, sealed etc, it should hold up. Balsa or nothing, that is the question... Well if you're using a decent, new, sharp router bit you shouldn't have too much trouble if, like Kev said, you leave 3-4mm in between. You'd get away with the balsa wood things, but it would be a bit rough. I'd personally try it leaving the wood behind first, and if it goes wrong, think about filling the gap after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 good call. what p90's are you using phill? (/link?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 Bareknuckle P92s. Overwound P90's for more output. Planning on wiring them to a standard gibson style toggle with a mini switch to switch between parallel and series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 damn... seems like you gotta pay a small fortune for decent p90's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 damn... seems like you gotta pay a small fortune for decent p90's... they are a bit pricey, The SD P90's aren't bad pickups. They don't really compete with the BKPs but they sound decent non the less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 yeah the SD hot p90's got lots of good reviews. TBH, i can see myself giving the GFS ones a go if the GFS rails i got sound good when i get the londaxe done. I know they wont be BKP good, but they might sound decent. HOPEFULY i'll get most of the londaxe done next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 I've got the GFS dream 90 in my mirror guitar. Brilliant pick up, especially for the price. No complaints with it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 yeah i'm planning a vintage-esque tele for a guy in my class. they're an option for the pickup... gotta wonder what the GFS soapbar one is like... edit: demo anywhere of those dream 90's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 yeah i'm planning a vintage-esque tele for a guy in my class. they're an option for the pickup... gotta wonder what the GFS soapbar one is like... edit: demo anywhere of those dream 90's? i'll see if i can get anything done today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 oh dont worry about it! i just meant if you had it done already!! i'll settle for a pic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 it's a humbucker sized P90, neck position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 and the bonus switch there is for?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 coil split on the nailbomb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 oooh!! something interesting!! i thought it was a ff. looks amazing anyway phill. gj. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 oooh!! something interesting!! i thought it was a ff. looks amazing anyway phill. gj. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pluginbabydoll Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Wow that mirror is sexy phil! Wouldn't mind hearing the ossum pickups too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 ok, so here goes. Day 1 of my first build, and already, i've hit a MAJOR issue. I'm measuring out the template on the wood for the londaxe, and i've checked and rechecked this, but i have a problem with the bridge. When i measured it, using the calculator from stewmac, it looks like the bridge is REALLY far down the body. To measure it, i held the neck in place, and measured 25.5" from the nut (as per the stew mac site) and drew a line (I've highlighted this line in red). I then double checked the template in cad, and it's only minutely smaller than the likes of a tele. Now, when i held up the neck, and took a photo, it doesn't look any smaller than a normal guitar really. and everything will still fit etc. It's more of an aesthetic detail than a technical problem, just wondering if any one has any suggestions. Right now, as this is my first build, i'm thinking, stop being so over cautious about this and cut the wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomrulez Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 That body does look very short, if all the measurements work out fine then It's just an aesthetic problem. There isn't really anything you can do about it unless you re-do the body and make it longer, I wouldn't really worry that much about it. Edit: I would be concerned about the body balancing on a strap though, a general rule of thumb is to make the top horn end at the twelfth fret and yours ends much higher, with the shorter body also this could be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Posted October 28, 2008 Author Share Posted October 28, 2008 How does it compare to the positioning on the real londaxes? If it's very different either your scale length is wrong or something has gone drastically wrong with your measurements. I'd re-do it if I were you. It could be to do with the heel of the neck. How many frets does a Londaxe usually have and how does the neck attach? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomrulez Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 I've just looked into this and on the real londaxes the bridge is positioned very close to the edge of the body also the top horn extends well past the 12th fret so by the looks of things your measurements are right, I'd wait for someone who has or has played a londaxe to post but I think everything is all right. On second thoughts I think your body is a little bit shorter than a real londaxe, compare this picture to yours on the previous page: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil. Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 well, the londax also has it's neck set in only a little. it all looks good. now i just have to figure out which blade on my jigsaw is for wood.... would the teeth on it be finer and close together, or rougher and far apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomrulez Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 I've only used a bandsaw before but I'd say rougher and further apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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