Jump to content

Recommended Posts

i'll just have to build it up enough so that it can be smooth. not ideal i know but how else can you do it without it being all bumpy

 

Bit late now I know but have you got a gun with a big enough needle to let you mix the reflective particles in with the clear coat and shoot it all in one go?

 

That should get you a smoother finish than sprinkling onto the wet finish, and should give more control of the glitter layering too.

 

Oh - are you using retarder in the clearcoat?

 

Other than that, as Phill says, clear and more clear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im not sure if my gun would have let them through or not. even if it did, there'd have been glitter in everything i did for the next few years. the damn stuff gets everywhere.

 

i showed him the pics last night and his response was - "MORE GLITTER!!!! it needs to be all over the guitar, but not too much". um. right.

 

so i just sprinkled some all over from high up so its not too dense. tried to take a pic of it but they didnt really come out. i sprayed two coats of clear. cos of the weather its having a bit of trouble drying. so tomorrow i shall try levelling it a little and spray another couple coats and see what happens.

 

its a pre-mixed acrylic im using so no, no retarder. would probably have helped covering the glitter tho. but ah well. he hasnt got the money for the pickups yet so im in no hurry. if it takes a week or two of spraying little bits at a time then so be it. he wanted more glitter, its his fault hehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

i showed him the pics last night and his response was - "MORE GLITTER!!!! it needs to be all over the guitar, but not too much". um. right.

 

 

ahahahahaa. I still can't get over that. But I agree with Toff that the random streaks/patches looks really really nice. I'm thinking of this kind of finish, but just all silver for my guitar.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

Not been on in a while! (not that I was on much before anyways, but yeah) I'm gonna try and build a manson replica, now I at least know something about what i'm doing. Before people start calling me a "bellamy wannabe" or noob, bare in mind that the fact that bellamy uses the guitar in quesion makes no difference, I just like that guitar :p

 

While I may have known nothing before, and failed epicly as far as the guitar went, I know at least enough now so...

 

Anyways. The problem is I havent a clue about woodwork. Other than that i'm fine.

 

So here goes.

 

What should I use for cutting the body out? A router, or one of those jigsaw things.

 

How do I get the tunnel thing going between the two cavities for the pickups without going through the front/back of the guitar?

 

And Finaly, how do I mount the perspex if I do a mirror, and should it be mounted before or after routing?

 

Thanks!

 

Edit: Oh and do I smooth the edges on the perspex with a heat gun?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After the body has been cut and routed, double side the perspex to the top and use a router bit with a bearing on the top to cut the pu cavities into the perspex and drill the holes. Then glue it on after the back and sides have been finished.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously though before you even consider the perspex please go to Project Guitar and read read read, almost all of your questions should be answered there. I'd also recommend having a browse through their forums as that is a very good place to pick up on hints and tips to avoid potential problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before people start calling me a "bellamy wannabe" or noob, bare in mind that the fact that bellamy uses the guitar in quesion makes no difference, I just like that guitar :p

 

At end of day it's going to be your guitar and you can make what the hell you like. The trouble with trying to copy one of Matt's is that you're setting yourself a difficult target to hit first time out. Aside from anything else, dealing with a glue-on perspex top multiplies the opportunities for fuck-ups with heights and angles.

 

While I may have known nothing before, and failed epicly as far as the guitar went, I know at least enough now so...

 

Anyways. The problem is I havent a clue about woodwork. Other than that i'm fine.

 

Ahem. There's a contradiction in terms in those two paragraphs. On the one hand you say you know enough, but then you fess up to not knowing a jot about woodwork. That's a big problem.

 

Without wanting to blow my own trumpet too much, I was a newbie at building guitars when I started on this, but I knew shitloads about woodwork, metalwork, electronics and general engineering. As a result, all the general principles I needed, I already knew, all I needed to add was the specifics of designing and engineering a guitar. Even then, I chose to start out from a part-finished body and neck rather than build completely from scratch. I made that choice partly because I wanted to maximise the chances of ending up with a nice, playable instrument, and partially because doing it this way avoided the need to shell out significant money on some custom (and expensive) guitar building tools.

 

What should I use for cutting the body out? A router, or one of those jigsaw things.

 

You don't want to be using a jigsaw, as the blade will wander and bend through a two inch slab of wood, so at best you will only be able to make a very rough cut via this method. You can either rout (with or without a template and a bearing-guided cutter), or you can use a bandsaw. Once you've got the rough shape you'll need a drum or belt sander to tidy the edges. Also don't forget you'll need to run the body blank through a planer/thicknesser first to square it and get it to the right thickness.

 

How do I get the tunnel thing going between the two cavities for the pickups without going through the front/back of the guitar?

 

Tunnels? They're drill holes. You use very long drill bits, long enough for you to drill through at shallow angle. However, as you seem to be going for a stick-on perspex front, you could theoretically, if you want, rout channels through the front of the body prior to sticking your front on. Just don't forget to shield them.

 

And Finaly, how do I mount the perspex if I do a mirror, and should it be mounted before or after routing?

 

You mount it at the point that makes the most sense to your build. None of us knows exactly what you intend to do so we can't tell you what the answer to this is. Mounting it earlier will give you more option to test and tweak angles and heights. However, mounting it earlier will increase the chances of you scratching or otherwise blemishing it.

 

Edit: Oh and do I smooth the edges on the perspex with a heat gun?

 

The best thing for flame-surfacing perspex is a blowlamp. However your technique has to be spot-on.

 

All in all, if you're still asking questions like this, it doesn't, with the best will in the world, sound like you're ready to start cutting bits of wood. If you haven't done so already, get hold of Melvyn Hiscock's book. It'll answer many of the obvious questions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm actually building my first custom at the moment. After the advice from both people here, and a bunch of friends in college, i'm going with a jigsaw, files and chissels.

 

The jigsaw is for the general shape of the body, and the chissels are for things like the pickup spaces, neck pockets, electronics cavity etc.

 

i was told that unless you've used a router, steer clear. they're pretty tricky to use, and dangerous little bastards!! one guy in college has a nasty scar on his hand as a result...

 

tesco are selling jigsaws for about €35, and as for the files and chissels, although there are packs of like 50 for €2, you're better off spending €30 on like 2 really good ones, cos they'll last longer and you wont need to sharpen them.

 

other than that, you'll only need things you might have at home anyway, like phillips screwdrivers, needle nose pliars, drill, soldering iron.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm actually building my first custom at the moment. After the advice from both people here, and a bunch of friends in college, i'm going with a jigsaw, files and chissels.

 

The jigsaw is for the general shape of the body, and the chissels are for things like the pickup spaces, neck pockets, electronics cavity etc.

 

i was told that unless you've used a router, steer clear. they're pretty tricky to use, and dangerous little bastards!! one guy in college has a nasty scar on his hand as a result...

 

tesco are selling jigsaws for about €35, and as for the files and chissels, although there are packs of like 50 for €2, you're better off spending €30 on like 2 really good ones, cos they'll last longer and you wont need to sharpen them.

 

other than that, you'll only need things you might have at home anyway, like phillips screwdrivers, needle nose pliars, drill, soldering iron.

 

I would seriously recommend getting a router, they aren't that hard to use and if you have templates for everything and take things slow and steady they are perfectly safe. You will not believe how much time you save and how accurate the results are.

 

If you have never used one before just have a few practices on scrap wood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think i'll be ok for the first build. the same guy in work with the nasty scar said if the chisseling is looking shite, he'll route it for me.

 

That's all right then. Do you have access to a band-saw? They are generally used for cutting bodies as they are pretty accurate and clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not for the first build. What i was going to do was print out the body to scale (plotters in uni) trace it onto the wood, then using mah new jigsaw (got 400 bonus student points for buying it at tesco) cut it between 5 and 15 mm out from the trace, then sand it down. I know 15mm could be miles out, but i'm not too good with a jigsaw, and better safe than sorry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think i'll be ok for the first build. the same guy in work with the nasty scar said if the chisseling is looking shite, he'll route it for me.

 

I'd still second Tom's suggestion. You'll be there for feckin' ages trying to do everything with a chisel, and while your mate's offered to rout if you get into trouble, if you accidentally lop a bit too much wood off, dig into the grain or something like that, it's not as though your mate will be able to magic that wood back onto the body.

 

And, while you can cause yourself damage with a router if you're a clumsy f*cker, it's not like you don't also have the potential to chop something important off with a chisel so it's a bit swings and roundabouts. Speaking of which, you're right to go for more expensive, rather than cheap & nasty chisels, but you're probably wrong to think you'll be able to get away without sharpening them. I've never bought a chisel that was sharp enough in the packet, even brand new they tend to need a little bit of a polish. If I were you I'd add a tidy oilstone and one of those chisel holders to your tool cost expectations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...