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Yea I should be heading down to Philly either Friday afternoon or first thing Saturday morning. Might as well try and see some shit while I am down there!

 

I might have to sell my ticket actually :facepalm: Just realized I already had something lined up.

 

Barclays should still be good though, provided that there isn't a blizzard again. Missed out on QOTSA playing there a couple winters ago, which I'm still pissed about.

 

I'll get over it. Eventually.

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I wouldn't expect anything special. It looks like they've improved since the fake gibsons that were flooding eBay several years back, but you'd still probably be better off buying a yamaha or squier

Pretty much what I figured (and I haven't even begun to price up customs costs). I'm just looking for something cheap to practise on. Just spotted an Ibanez Talman on Thomann for £155, so might look into that.

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James did you ever figure out what that mystery Turkish pedal was because I think I know what it is but if you beat me to it i'll just accept defeat :LOL:

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James did you ever figure out what that mystery Turkish pedal was because I think I know what it is but if you beat me to it i'll just accept defeat :LOL:

 

WHAT IS IT

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WHAT IS IT

 

Okay so I decided to do Drones for one of my assessments at university where i had to talk about production techniques and I bought an article off Sound on Sound a great website for this kinda thing and it's got an interview with Rich Costey and Tommaso Colliva - their engineer and the dude who built all their home studios for them etc etc and when he's asked about guitar effects he says "Pedal-wise there was a lot going on, but there are a few pedals that get used a lot, like the ZVex Fuzz Factory, the ZVex Super Hard On, which gives a nice clean boost so it distorts the amplifier, the Super Duper, and the Machsonic Thrust Drive pedal, which is made by someone in Turkey, and which we used with the Ampeg head for a very scooped-out fuzz sound, the JHS Colour Box, which mimics the sound of the Neve 1073, and a Roland SDD 3000 pedal."

 

So yeah looks like it's this ol' chap http://equipboard.com/items/machsonic-thrust-drive it's a really great article i'm happy to screenshot it all and upload it to imgur or something if anyone fancies giving it a read, details all of Matt's amps and pedals used and how they demod everything.

 

EDIT: Just checked the making of video - definitely that pedal, you're welcome

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brilliant. Neil said it was one of those $30 cigar box pedals

 

Not sure about the sound to be honest.

 

-wLw98MiUpE

 

yeah I have to admit after watching the very few demos I could find on youTube I certainly won't be trying to buy one haha

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Been a while.

 

I'm having a bit of a problem with my bass, basically open strings are in tune, fretted notes are sharp. I've tried to sort this out by extending the length of the strings down by the bridge but it has not made a single difference. Anything else I can try? adjust the truss rod or something?

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Odd! It might indeed be useful to adjust those - however mostly it should've been solved with saddle adjustments.

 

How are the harmonics? Is the 12th fret harmonic also in tune?

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Odd! It might indeed be useful to adjust those - however mostly it should've been solved with saddle adjustments.

 

How are the harmonics? Is the 12th fret harmonic also in tune?

 

Well, the twelfth fret is definitely sharp, for all the strings. I'll check the harmonics when I have a chance tomorrow though.

 

Would the action have an effect?

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Well, the twelfth fret is definitely sharp, for all the strings. I'll check the harmonics when I have a chance tomorrow though.

 

 

 

Would the action have an effect?

 

 

Can't imagine it's the action if the harmonic at the 12th is sharp, but then can you get a sharp harmonic? Aren't harmonica mostly fixed points? I might be wrong. But yeah if the harmonic is sharp as well I'd guess your fret markers/intonation is waay off

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Two piece body vs one solid piece... Is there a noticeable difference? Mahogany specifically.

 

I wouldn't say there is.

 

Been a while.

 

I'm having a bit of a problem with my bass, basically open strings are in tune, fretted notes are sharp. I've tried to sort this out by extending the length of the strings down by the bridge but it has not made a single difference. Anything else I can try? adjust the truss rod or something?

 

How old are the strings? I'd start with those if adjusting the saddles doesn't make a difference.

 

Also, I don't know if this is true for basses, but on some guitars (mainly strats from my experience) the magnetic pull from the pickups can affect the intonation to the point where adjusting the saddles make little to no difference.

 

It usually seems to make them go flat rather than sharp, but it might be worth lowering your pickups a slight amount to see if it makes a difference.

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Brand new strings. I've lowered the action and it hasn't really helped, although it has helped me notice that my action has been far to high for years.

 

Playing a harmonic on the 12th is in tune, but the fretted note is sharp.

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That would make sense. Does it get worse the higher you play on the neck?

 

I'm a bit stumped if it's not the strings, pickup height, or saddles. I've found that the action and neck relief makes a minimal difference (if any) when it comes to intonation.

 

The only other thing I can think of is the nut, but I don't think that will cause the fretted strings to go sharp. Maybe someone else knows more about that, as I never really do setup work beyond action, intonation, and truss rod adjustment

 

Also, did you only notice this after changing the strings, or was it like this before? And is it the same gauge and brand as the previous ones?

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It's more or less consistent all the way up, across all strings.

 

The previous strings were super old so I cannot remember to be honest. I feel like it has been out for a while.

 

I've not messed with the pickups, but I am not sure that would be the problem, bass strings are surely to heavy to be affected by the magnet...

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The extra mass of the strings means they're more likely to be affected, though that's counteracted by the extra inertia, so erm, who knows.

 

Looking at what you've described, it doesn't make sense. If you fret it at the 12th fret, that note is sharper than the harmonic directly above the fret?

 

It sounds like you have gone up a gauge in strings, and if so you're intonation will be off. You need to adjust the bridge until the open note is the same note one octave down from the 12th fret. The bridge saddles need to move back away from the nut. Can you please post some pictures?

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