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damn

 

Damn

 

I've never been so gutted that I'm not left handed

 

Exactly. It's something I've never been gutted about before.

 

Anyone record guitar video via GoPro? My target has an open box Hero4 Session for like $150 +/- that's intriguing me. Thoughts/experiences?

 

That depends how you're using it really. It doesn't have the greatest sound quality, but the small size is obviously a plus.

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If I put 12s or 13s on a guitar that's usually got 10s on it, will the nut slots be too big if I go back to the lighter guage? Guessing the thicker strings will wear the slots away a bit.

 

Not necessarily. If you make sure the nut slots are cut with files that have a rounded bottom then the thinner strings should still be fine. If you are going to put 12's or 13's on a guitar I would get the nut slots widened though. The strings will most likely bind and go out of tune at the drop of a hat if not.

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And no I wouldn't worry about busting your nut @nerd_herd. A bigger problem would be keeping it in tune with the heavier strings.... that dreaded "ping" noise :facepalm:

 

I think the main issue switching back would be that ringing behind the nut issue. It's this weird sort of resonance that usually happens on the high E and B strings if they're not snug.

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Not necessarily. If you make sure the nut slots are cut with files that have a rounded bottom then the thinner strings should still be fine. If you are going to put 12's or 13's on a guitar I would get the nut slots widened though. The strings will most likely bind and go out of tune at the drop of a hat if not.

 

Hoped I'd get away without modding the nut at all. Don't have any of the proper files, so might try the sandpaper round a slightly thinner string thing (and probably ruin the nut in the process).

 

And no I wouldn't worry about busting your nut @nerd_herd. A bigger problem would be keeping it in tune with the heavier strings.... that dreaded "ping" noise :facepalm:

 

I think the main issue switching back would be that ringing behind the nut issue. It's this weird sort of resonance that usually happens on the high E and B strings if they're not snug.

 

:chuckle:

 

I'm more worried about the headstock snapping off with the higher tension. Do heavier strings always have that dreaded ping noise? I could always keep using 10s on it, but they're a bit too loose for C standard. But then it can be tuned to E fairly easily too if when I change my mind.

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Hoped I'd get away without modding the nut at all. Don't have any of the proper files, so might try the sandpaper round a slightly thinner string thing (and probably ruin the nut in the process).

 

 

 

:chuckle:

 

I'm more worried about the headstock snapping off with the higher tension. Do heavier strings always have that dreaded ping noise? I could always keep using 10s on it, but they're a bit too loose for C standard. But then it can be tuned to E fairly easily too if when I change my mind.

 

I wouldn't recommend that. And it's nothing to do with the heavier strings - it's the nut slot not being wide enough for the string.

 

I'd say the tension is only slightly higher than usual, at least if you're tuned to C. I remember on that BB1200, when I switched from E with 10s to C with 13s, the neck didn't really move that much.

 

I probably wouldn't put it in E if it has anything heavier than 11s on.

 

I wouldn't worry about the headstock at all. It's weird, the guitars I had professionally set up (one of which was plek'd) for that tuning don't stay in tune as well as JH's old one, even with the headstock repair. I swear that one is in tune every time I pick it up.... guess it's a bit 'seasoned' at this point...

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I wouldn't recommend that. And it's nothing to do with the heavier strings - it's the nut slot not being wide enough for the string.

 

I'd say the tension is only slightly higher than usual, at least if you're tuned to C. I remember on that BB1200, when I switched from E with 10s to C with 13s, the neck didn't really move that much.

 

I probably wouldn't put it in E if it has anything heavier than 11s on.

 

I wouldn't worry about the headstock at all. It's weird, the guitars I had professionally set up (one of which was plek'd) for that tuning don't stay in tune as well as JH's old one, even with the headstock repair. I swear that one is in tune every time I pick it up.... guess it's a bit 'seasoned' at this point...

 

Probably more sensible to have it done properly. Ah right, I thought you meant it was something that always happens with heavier strings.

 

I'm slightly wary of epiphone headstocks after I snapped one off one of my old les pauls somehow :facepalm:. This guitar's actually good though, so it should be fine. I take it JH's old one has all of the C mojo.

Edited by nerd herd
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Where's the like button? Do I detect some Piezo in there too??

 

Also, anyone here ever own an early perboard Fuzz Factory??

 

On the "this is the last time..." bit? Then yes, I think I hear it as well.

 

And I did YEARS ago. It had one of those really thin yellow boards, and from what I remember, different transistors. Not the "spam can" ones, but not the same ones they're using now either. Otherwise, I can't remember much about it.

 

Probably more sensible to have it done properly. Ah right, I thought you meant it was something that always happens with heavier strings.

 

I'm slightly wary of epiphone headstocks after I snapped one off one of my old les pauls somehow :facepalm:. This guitar's actually good though, so it should be fine. I take it JH's old one has all of the C mojo.

 

Which guitar is this exactly? I'd keep a dedicated guitar for C standard if you can.

 

It does, or rotosound makes better strings than the ernie balls on my other guitars. I haven't changed them in ages either... maybe for the upcoming #restringsundays :ninja:

 

How did you manage that? I had an epi LP standard back in 2005 (?) and it felt pretty fragile, even compared to the usual LP type guitar.

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Which guitar is this exactly? I'd keep a dedicated guitar for C standard if you can.

 

It does, or rotosound makes better strings than the ernie balls on my other guitars. I haven't changed them in ages either... maybe for the upcoming #restringsundays :ninja:

 

How did you manage that? I had an epi LP standard back in 2005 (?) and it felt pretty fragile, even compared to the usual LP type guitar.

 

It's my dot deluxe.

 

I don't really know how it happened. The headstock just ended up bent forward somehow. It was one of the junior specials (or whatever they're called), so the neck was probably made of MDF :chuckle:. Would've been more fun if I'd chucked it at a drum kit or something.

Edited by nerd herd
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On the "this is the last time..." bit? Then yes, I think I hear it as well.

 

And I did YEARS ago. It had one of those really thin yellow boards, and from what I remember, different transistors. Not the "spam can" ones, but not the same ones they're using now either. Otherwise, I can't remember much about it.

 

 

Well that's a start. I have been obsessing about the transistorsZvex used before switching to the 2N404 type lately.

 

I'm fairly confident that the transistors don't matter, they all sound more or less the same, I thought maybe you could say if you feel the new pedals on the PCB sound different?

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It's my dot deluxe.

 

I don't really know how it happened. The headstock just ended up bent forward somehow. It was one of the junior specials (or whatever they're called), so the neck was probably made of MDF :chuckle:. Would've been more fun if I'd chucked it at a drum kit or something.

 

That's weird. I have no idea what the necks are made of, but I wouldn't be surprised if they're made of something other than mahogany or maple.

 

Apparently this danelectro thing I have (same kind Chris used on hullabaloo for unintended :nerd: ) has a poplar neck, which seems a bit unusual.

 

Well that's a start. I have been obsessing about the transistorsZvex used before switching to the 2N404 type lately.

 

I'm fairly confident that the transistors don't matter, they all sound more or less the same, I thought maybe you could say if you feel the new pedals on the PCB sound different?

 

I think so. I wouldn't know what the differences are though. I currently have one from 2003 which I think sounds really good. I'm pretty sure it's PCB, but I don't think it's exactly the same as the new ones. Certainly sounds a bit different.

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I'd be interested to see a pic of the guts next time it's battery changing time. Think I should investigate how it sounds with some genuine NKT CV7005 I've been hoarding for fuzz faces. They do soy d different in the face, though I Am actually pretty set on mullard OC71 over the other germaniums I have.

 

And yeah, I've heard of poplar being used for necks. Apparently if its cut right, ie not flatsawn across the width of the trunk, it's very dimensionally stable. Its used in pattern making, so it must be pretty good.

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I'd be interested to see a pic of the guts next time it's battery changing time. Think I should investigate how it sounds with some genuine NKT CV7005 I've been hoarding for fuzz faces. They do soy d different in the face, though I Am actually pretty set on mullard OC71 over the other germaniums I have.

 

And yeah, I've heard of poplar being used for necks. Apparently if its cut right, ie not flatsawn across the width of the trunk, it's very dimensionally stable. Its used in pattern making, so it must be pretty good.

 

If I remember correctly, it has these cylinder (is that the correct technical term?) shaped transistors. But I'll get a picture at some point.

 

And you should build me a fuzz face with genuine NKT CV7005s. Whatever those are. Just as long as I can play little wing through it.

 

No idea about how it's been constructed, but it seems pretty stable. I think I had to adjust it once in the past three years? It's got 11s on as well.

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That's weird. I have no idea what the necks are made of, but I wouldn't be surprised if they're made of something other than mahogany or maple.

 

Apparently this danelectro thing I have (same kind Chris used on hullabaloo for unintended :nerd: ) has a poplar neck, which seems a bit unusual.

 

It was supposedly mahogany, but must've been the worst piece possible.

 

Silly boy, no fuzz on little wing. You can has Monterey toans though

 

 

http://www.buyanalogman.com/Analog_Man_Sun_Face_p/am-sun-face.htm

 

So much want.

 

Also, that ultimate fanboy moment when one of your favourite guitarists likes your photo on instagram :nerd:.

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Silly boy, no fuzz on little wing. You can has Monterey toans though

 

 

http://www.buyanalogman.com/Analog_Man_Sun_Face_p/am-sun-face.htm

 

Of course not. It's just because little wing appears to be TGP approved.

 

Just like that song "the accountant" or whatever it's called. I forgot who wrote it, but it's THE song to play through your two rock amp apparently.

 

Also, that ultimate fanboy moment when one of your favourite guitarists likes your photo on instagram :nerd:.

 

Too kind.

 

The closest I've come to that is having the official post pop depression account like my post, but obviously that isn't Iggy/Josh/anyone.

 

Unfortunately, 'mahogany' can be any number of timbers sourced from Africa to Brazil.

 

Is sapele considered mahogany?

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Of course not. It's just because little wing appears to be TGP approved.

 

Snip

 

Is sapele considered mahogany?

 

TGP indeed. Little Wing is the approved #geardemo song for all high end strats and Marshalls.

 

And yeah, Sapele is one of the woods sold as 'African Mahogany', but it's not a true mahogany.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tLBGLUVYh4

 

 

And what would be considered true mahogany?

 

Mahogany is a species, so it's hard to say. There are Cedars that are in the same family for example.

 

In terms of guitar timber, Swietana Mahoganii (spelling?) is 'the' mahogany used in old Gibson's and Martin's pre-war. This is sometimes referred to as cuban or Honduras mahogany.

 

Post war Gibson used all sorts of mahogany, including true mahogany, khaya, and Brazilian (Macrophylla) the latter of which was used extensively before becoming near extinct.

 

The actual type you have is very important if you're building instruments. Common 'mahogany' tends toward a tube like grain structure, which makes it very succeptibke to shearing along the grain. Its effectively made up of very thin tubeular structures so it's only really strong in one direction. This is very different to say, Ash which is very fibrous and interlocked.

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