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Get one. 15 bucks and it will save you so much time in the future trying to guess stuff like this.

 

Also to figure out which of your new pot is the volume vs tone, etc

 

Exactly, they are a must to have on hand for any electronics work. There are so many times a solder joint looks good, but really isn't when you test it. When ever I do solder work I always test all components I will be working with to ensure that they work and are proper tolerances. After I make a solder join I always check the continuity to make sure things are good.

 

Makes life so much easier, because if you wait till the end, you have to carefully test each piece of try to find the problem.

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Yes you're right, I'm going to look where I can buy one, I also need to remember how to use it, the last time I used one was in high school :D

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Yes you're right, I'm going to look where I can buy one, I also need to remember how to use it, the last time I used one was in high school :D

I got the cheapest Dmiotech possible, and it does everything from resistance, capacitance to continuity :D

 

Soldering was a pain in the ass for the first month or so, but after ~8 ruined pots I can safely say that I know how to solder now :$

 

Do you have a good solder? I use this Weller one http://smile.amazon.com/Weller-WPS18MP-High-Performance-Soldering-Iron/dp/B0013U9R1E/?ie=UTF8&qid=1463161356&sr=8-7&keywords=weller+solder+iron and it's literally the best thing ever. ~30 seconds to heat up, it tells you when it's ready, and built-in light :happy:

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Also make sure you have the right tip for the job. If you have a pencil tip and you are trying to solder to the back of a pot you will find it harder. A chisel tip will transfer the heat much faster and make it much easier to get the heat on and off again without harming the pot. Once you've gotten comfortable with soldering techniques, you can hack your way through with the wrong tip a lot easier.

 

Also, when you buy a multi meter, look for one that has continuity beep mode

 

conticon3.jpg

 

When you are just testing continuity of connections, so much easier to just listen for a beep while touching the probes to things instead of trying to make sure probes are on and watch the reading.

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Wow. When I threw together my BarryMcKennacaster last summer (

) I didn't do any of that testing stuff.

Literally just soldered it together and it sounds great. Now slightly inquisitive as to if it's all going to go pop one day. :LOL:

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Hmm, I ordered new pots and switch, so I'll change everything, I guess I need mistakes to improve :D

 

About the Eiffel Tower gig, If I were you, I would be careful with all the events that happened, as Paris is a " perfect target " during the UEFA Euro.

 

Is this for the LP DC?

 

I admit that did cross my mind, but I don't know what to think about it.

 

Wow. When I threw together my BarryMcKennacaster last summer (
) I didn't do any of that testing stuff.

Literally just soldered it together and it sounds great. Now slightly inquisitive as to if it's all going to go pop one day. :LOL:

 

Yeah I never actually test connections. But then my multimeter isn't able to.

 

I haven't done a whole lot of soldering on the guitars I currently have. Replacing the FF switches in two of them was the biggest challenge, especially when wires started coming off the FF board as I was working :twitchy: But it's still good after five years, so I'm not too concerned.

 

Avoid lead-free solder.

 

I have 60/40. I think that's pretty much standard for this sort of thing.

 

Definitely need to replace my iron though. It's still working, but the part that holds the tip doesn't tighten properly anymore.

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Is this for the LP DC?

 

I admit that did cross my mind, but I don't know what to think about it.

 

 

No, the LP DC is perfect for the " sunburn " tone :D So I change nothing on it.

 

It's for this MoC : http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2016/19/1463222814-img-0196.jpg

 

 

Well, I think the security will be good enough to keep the gig and all the football matches " safe " , but in the streets, unfortunately, everything is possible.

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Yeah I never actually test connections. But then my multimeter isn't able to.

 

I have 60/40. I think that's pretty much standard for this sort of thing.

 

Definitely need to replace my iron though. It's still working, but the part that holds the tip doesn't tighten properly anymore.

 

Leaded was getting hard to get around here after some regulations kicked in, i thought that it was worldwide.

 

If for some reason you would want to check a connection then set your MM to the lowest resistance setting possible, when it measures below a few ohms then it is a connection.

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Leaded solder was withdrawn as part of the RoHS legislation. It's a bit complicated, you can still use it for 'legacy' repairs to old/vintage equipment where lead solder is incompatible with unleaded. For the most part though, you'll only find lead free in the majority of suppliers now.

Lead free is a lot better than it used to be, but I still use lead solder.

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So, Eurovision....

 

Georgia's entry had a pedalboard made of cake.

 

I can't fucking breathe

 

 

 

awjXQ8S.jpg

 

 

Edited by Matthijs
hide those large images yo!

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I use 60/40 rosin core or whatever it is? Seems to flow really well for me.

 

You should get that iron i posted, James. The first i had was some cheap Chinese stuff. The silicone on the iron MELTED before it was hot enough to heat up the pot :facepalm: This Weller one heats up really fast and the grip is so comfy :happy:

 

Also bad news. Boyfriend likes the black cort more than red. :facepalm: fine, i guess we'll turn his into a Matt Black :facepalm:

Maybe it's better this way, since i won't try to steal his guitar :facepalm: maybe he knows :twitchy:

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Interesting... :pope:

 

Strange that the wah pedal seems to have the output on the right side

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Nice, really like the first bit with the 'everything on 10 blowing up my amp' sound. The rest of the clip is meh, but that is a cool sound. Don't like the enclosure though, does look like a trannie bell housing, and lets face it nobody wants a trannie bulge protruding from their board.

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Ordered 10 packs of Ernie Ball RPS off a guy on eBay. Parcel arrived wet and the first three packs of strings that were in unsealed plastic sleeves had rusty unwound strings. Then I opened the rest which were in the sealed foil packs and they all had the same problem!

 

Totally bizarre that even the sealed strings were affected, has anyone else ever had the same problem?

 

I've got a refund now and I get to keep all the strings. Do you think the wound strings will be usable in the future seeing as they seem unaffected but are unsealed? Might be able to save money in the future by buying unwound strings instead of packs.

Edited by Fish Luke

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I have had that issue before with EBs in the foil packs. Not sure why, but I do keep it on the humid side all year round (especially after the fret ends started popping out on some of the guitars)

 

Hard to say whether or not that's the reason (I often buy a load of strings, but don't use all of them right away), or if they shipped that way in the first place. I will say that I've NEVER noticed new strings become rusty after I've put them on, even after a few months. Worst is that they've become a bit grungy after some playing and just sound dull.

 

I do have some non-sealed individual wound strings as well, but figured that dirt and humidity would get to them after a while, so they're in a sealed bag with some silica gel.

 

If the wound strings seem unaffected, then I don't see why you couldn't use them. They might not have that bright sound of a new string for that long though.

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Woah, who's that seller that we should avoid?

 

I'm thinking of getting a couple packs of EB 10's and single 60's strings. I do like the 4th and 5th strings in regular size better than in a 10-52 set

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In Matt's original Kaoss Manson, what is the equivalent pickup of it that BKP offer? I understand it's a BKP92 but can't find it?

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Woah, who's that seller that we should avoid?

 

I'm thinking of getting a couple packs of EB 10's and single 60's strings. I do like the 4th and 5th strings in regular size better than in a 10-52 set

 

Oh it was literally just a random seller on eBay. I'm guessing they bought a bunch of strings a while ago but no longer needed them.

 

It's OK I got a refund then managed to get 10 sets of .010 .013 0.17 for the same price to go with the wound strings that were unaffected.

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For playing the verse in sunburn, what picking pattern do you all use?

 

For some reason I can't play it as cleanly strictly using alternate picking, but rather

 

down, down, up, down, down, up

 

(using a delay for the extra notes of course)

 

Trying to figure out what makes the most sense...I can't really tell how MB plays it

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhCOXHrL2zU

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