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Yeah the problem being is that dealers will often sell things at a street price and not MSRP, so I was hoping for that - or maybe a used resale SOMEWHERE close ;_;

 

Tbh I wouldn't hold my breath. $220 is not a bad price. In fact, the Schecter guitars that come equipped with the Sustainiac start at $1000. $600 Cort with Bellarz authenticity + $220 > $1000 AX7 Schecter

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Tbh I wouldn't hold my breath. $220 is not a bad price. In fact, the Schecter guitars that come equipped with the Sustainiac start at $1000. $600 Cort with Bellarz authenticity + $220 > $1000 AX7 Schecter

True, I'm still probas gonna buy one anywho, just man i wish more people didnt want theirs so i could have one instead.

 

Also they're like 700 here or 650 or something here, and that was mostly the reason I wanted a sustainiac in the first place was actually using one, otherwise I'd have bought a feedback sustainer/booster pedal from boss....which i STILL might do now that I mention it...

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Still thinking of selling my cort mbc1 in black as I have had to leave my job.

 

Live in Glasgow looking for £300

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Is it normal for the MBK-2 to rock from side to side under light pressure? It doesn't feel loose but definitely has some give when pushed in on the long edges.

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Is it normal for the MBK-2 to rock from side to side under light pressure? It doesn't feel loose but definitely has some give when pushed in on the long edges.

 

Many humbuckers do that. It's perfectly normal no worries.

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Is it normal for the MBK-2 to rock from side to side under light pressure? It doesn't feel loose but definitely has some give when pushed in on the long edges.

 

Yea that's normal

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Yo guys, sorry for the slow follow-up. School's been driving me crazy.

Anyway, I listened to some youtube stuff of the neck Little 59, JB Jr and Cool Rails, but couldn't decide which was my favorite.

 

What are your opinions, if you own any of them? (Also, it looks like the Cool Rails is the Manson standard?)

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I have the cool rails in my MA-2, I personally love it. When both pickups are on it sounds like a 355 which I love. Many people chose to put a sustainer in there, but I have no need for one and the neck pickup works great with fuzz too :)

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Got a technical question that I'd really appreciate some help with. I went to plug in my mbc1, and then these two metal pieces fell away from the output jack. Could anyone post a picture of what their jack looks like? I'm trying to fix mine, and I'm actually not certain as to where these pieces go. I'm not sure how they could remain affixed to the outside of the jack, but I also for the life of me can't figure how they would've fallen out of the guitar, as they are both bigger than the hole for the jack. And without them, I can't plug in my guitar, so yeah, I'm up a creek right now. Any help would be great!

mbc1.thumb.jpg.5330f8ce3a40e6caa82562bfa3e4e969.jpg

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Got a technical question that I'd really appreciate some help with. I went to plug in my mbc1, and then these two metal pieces fell away from the output jack. Could anyone post a picture of what their jack looks like? I'm trying to fix mine, and I'm actually not certain as to where these pieces go. I'm not sure how they could remain affixed to the outside of the jack, but I also for the life of me can't figure how they would've fallen out of the guitar, as they are both bigger than the hole for the jack. And without them, I can't plug in my guitar, so yeah, I'm up a creek right now. Any help would be great!

 

So, there's 4 bits. The plate screwed on to the guitar, the jack that has wires connected to it that you actually plug the cable into and then these two that just fasten the socket to the plate

 

Unscrew the back cavity cover, poke the socket so it protrudes through the plate, put the washer on (the more circular of the two) then screw the nut on (the threaded hexagonal one). While screwing it on just be careful that the socket doesn't twist and mess up ye wires. Then screw the backplate on again

 

Easy job shouldn't take long

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After you unscrew the 2 screws on the jack plate it should look like this

KTuNR6ul.jpg

Pull that that threaded part out far enough to fit the washer & hex nut. Put the plate back in, put washer on, then the hex nut. :D

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Need help guys! I finally got round to replacing the pot that broke on my MBC-1 but I seem to have somehow bypassed the kill button and can't figure out how our should be weird. Basically at the moment the kill button just goes from the button to the Jack and the rest is wired as per standard two pot wiring but this seems to be wrong as the button does nothing!

 

Any clues or pics of cavities would be appreciated :D

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Need help guys! I finally got round to replacing the pot that broke on my MBC-1 but I seem to have somehow bypassed the kill button and can't figure out how our should be weird. Basically at the moment the kill button just goes from the button to the Jack and the rest is wired as per standard two pot wiring but this seems to be wrong as the button does nothing!

 

Any clues or pics of cavities would be appreciated :D

 

Let me know if you need more pics

 

kxaC2Qb.jpgqarQO16h.jpg

 

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I'm planning on putting black electrical tape or masking tape over the cort headstock logo because that logo is seriously getting on my nerves. The problem is none of the hardware stores around me actually have black masking tape, or they probably do and I'm just very blind. I have a roll of electrical tape but it's about 2cm too small, meaning it barely covers up the entire logo.

 

If only there was a much easier way to completely remove the logo without damaging the finish or anything. I've actually thought of taking some kind of paint thinner and carefully "sand" off the logo, because afaik it's just paint above the actual finish.

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I'm planning on putting black electrical tape or masking tape over the cort headstock logo because that logo is seriously getting on my nerves. The problem is none of the hardware stores around me actually have black masking tape, or they probably do and I'm just very blind. I have a roll of electrical tape but it's about 2cm too small, meaning it barely covers up the entire logo.

 

If only there was a much easier way to completely remove the logo without damaging the finish or anything. I've actually thought of taking some kind of paint thinner and carefully "sand" off the logo, because afaik it's just paint above the actual finish.

I'd say just sand it off and if it ends in horror tell us so we dont :LOL:

 

Mostly kidding, I wouldn't mind taking it off but it's not a huge issue to me at the moment. I'm definitely gonna grab the Red Glitter one asap though

 

 

Also Ordered a new pot, the EVH low friction one. I was having quite a bit of issues lately with the standard ones, signal cutting if tapped and what not.

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Also Ordered a new pot, the EVH low friction one. I was having quite a bit of issues lately with the standard ones, signal cutting if tapped and what not.

 

Which ones were you using before? I've never tried the EVH ones, as I kept managing to destroy them during installation. Generally I get the CTS ones, even if the tolerances are supposedly not as good as some of the others

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I'm planning on putting black electrical tape or masking tape over the cort headstock logo because that logo is seriously getting on my nerves. The problem is none of the hardware stores around me actually have black masking tape, or they probably do and I'm just very blind. I have a roll of electrical tape but it's about 2cm too small, meaning it barely covers up the entire logo.

 

If only there was a much easier way to completely remove the logo without damaging the finish or anything. I've actually thought of taking some kind of paint thinner and carefully "sand" off the logo, because afaik it's just paint above the actual finish.

 

If you're that scared, get some adhesive matt black vinyl, of the type used by sign-makers (Kev..?) and for wrapping cars. You can stick that to the headstock and carefully trim it to size with a sharp blade. Et voila, matt black headstock.

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Which ones were you using before? I've never tried the EVH ones, as I kept managing to destroy them during installation. Generally I get the CTS ones, even if the tolerances are supposedly not as good as some of the others

 

What are the good pots? CTS seems to be the standard in high-end guitars though, right? My LP has those, and from what I recall the difference between the MA-2 and MA-1 aside the pickup is the CTS pots on the MA-2.

 

What kind of cap should I get for the Cort - Orange drop or paper in oil? Bare Knuckle seems to endorse PIO while Manson uses OD :$

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What kind of cap should I get for the Cort - Orange drop or paper in oil? Bare Knuckle seems to endorse PIO while Manson uses OD :$

Paper in oil personally, but that's just me.

 

Which ones were you using before? I've never tried the EVH ones, as I kept managing to destroy them during installation. Generally I get the CTS ones, even if the tolerances are supposedly not as good as some of the others

 

I have been using the standard ones that come with it so far, and they've been giving me a bit of trouble. Hopefully they get here within the week so I can test it out and be happy.

 

When you say you managed to destroy them, does that mean you messed up or the pots were terribly made - because now I'm scared :eek:

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What are the good pots? CTS seems to be the standard in high-end guitars though, right? My LP has those, and from what I recall the difference between the MA-2 and MA-1 aside the pickup is the CTS pots on the MA-2.

 

What kind of cap should I get for the Cort - Orange drop or paper in oil? Bare Knuckle seems to endorse PIO while Manson uses OD :$

 

CTS

 

And I've never found it to make much of a difference in sound. orange drops are more than good enough.

 

I think a few of my older Mansons have those little green film caps, so they weren't always using the orange drops.

 

I have been using the standard ones that come with it so far, and they've been giving me a bit of trouble. Hopefully they get here within the week so I can test it out and be happy.

 

When you say you managed to destroy them, does that mean you messed up or the pots were terribly made - because now I'm scared :eek:

 

The alpha mini pots? I can't say I'm a fan of those. The full size ones are good though

 

And probably a bit of both. I recall the solder terminals kept breaking off - they were really thin from what I remember.

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Little green caps are Mylar. I like them and use them on most things I do. Orange drops are poly, they're possibly slightly, infinitesimally better, but for a treble bleed to ground, I don't think it matters. Using oil in paper is, in my eyes, snake oil. They will eventually fail, and they don't sound different in this application to a regular film cap.

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I see. Orange drop it is. Yeah, it felt like people who love the PIO caps so much are old "vintage" loving LP guys :stunned:

 

I did kind of strip the innards of the guitar out to measure the holes and stuff. If you're buying new pots, make sure to buy metric (8mm) shafts, or else it won't fit.

 

CTS doesn't have push pull metric, damn it :stunned:

 

@Witz: took a bunch more pictures of the cavity today, let me know if you need more

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I see. Orange drop it is. Yeah, it felt like people who love the PIO caps so much are old "vintage" loving LP guys :stunned:

 

I did kind of strip the innards of the guitar out to measure the holes and stuff. If you're buying new pots, make sure to buy metric (8mm) shafts, or else it won't fit.

 

CTS doesn't have push pull metric, damn it :stunned:

 

@Witz: took a bunch more pictures of the cavity today, let me know if you need more

 

I'd look at widening the holes to 9.5mm, it's a very easy job and definitely worthwhile to get CTS quality pots in there.

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