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^^^^

 

I also bought the tail piece. I did a swap in swap out by trading in one piece at a time and keeping the other two the same. I found that the bridge improved the tone a lot and the playability. The tailpiece though that just transformed the guitar even with the old bridge and old but. The but made more of a difference too playability but the three together really brought the guitar out!

 

I have to admit my SG is only a epiphone but I treated it because it is a quality bit of wood, it's a Korean, it's geometrically perfect and was already not far off my friends SG original but the pickups were crap and the bridge etc let the guitar. I changed those levelled the frets changed to uber limited edition tuners some custom Seymour Duncan pups, re-did all the wiring and it now makes my friends original look silly :)

 

I would highly recommended there gear, made a big difference to my guitar not sure if that would be the same for yours but I also fitted the same set up to a friends tele and it made a big difference to that as well ;)

 

BTW I'm starting to plan my Manson inspired replica builds as my CNC machine is pretty much finished just can't decide on what woods to go for might have to open a thread on hear and open a poll or something :)

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^^^^

 

I also bought the tail piece. I did a swap in swap out by trading in one piece at a time and keeping the other two the same. I found that the bridge improved the tone a lot and the playability. The tailpiece though that just transformed the guitar even with the old bridge and old but. The but made more of a difference too playability but the three together really brought the guitar out!

 

I have to admit my SG is only a epiphone but I treated it because it is a quality bit of wood, it's a Korean, it's geometrically perfect and was already not far off my friends SG original but the pickups were crap and the bridge etc let the guitar. I changed those levelled the frets changed to uber limited edition tuners some custom Seymour Duncan pups, re-did all the wiring and it now makes my friends original look silly :)

 

I would highly recommended there gear, made a big difference to my guitar not sure if that would be the same for yours but I also fitted the same set up to a friends tele and it made a big difference to that as well ;)

 

BTW I'm starting to plan my Manson inspired replica builds as my CNC machine is pretty much finished just can't decide on what woods to go for might have to open a thread on hear and open a poll or something :)

 

That's pretty interesting; I could see the bridge making a difference in playability (if the original isn't spaced and radius'd correctly for example) and sound (saddle material) at least.

 

I'll have to make a decision about the nut, but I imagine the stock one isn't the exact same material as the graphtech (doesn't seem as dense, and is a bit harder... almost plastic like, but I don't think it is). I'm mainly avoiding changing it because I can't do anything beyond a basic setup really, but this guitar needs to go in to have the fret ends filed anyway.

 

And that's cool. If you're used to the gibson type sound, I'd probably go with ash or mahogany. They've also been using stuff like Honduran cedar, which I understand is somewhere between the two. Not sure if any of the recent MB guitars are made of that...no idea what they're made of actually, but they're weight relieved in both wood and hardware to be as light as possible (around 2.5kg)

 

The MB-1 and DL-1 are alder, which is pretty neutral sounding (if not a little more upper mids/highs) but probably wouldn't be my first choice if I was building something.

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Yeah I was thinking about using swamp ash as it's lighter and a bit different to mahogany and as I'm probably going to build myself some sort of super retro Gibson in the future which I will make from mahogany so it might be nice to use swamp ash for this build.

 

As far as changing a nut it's pretty easy really just knife along the edge of your current nut to perfect the paint. Then hit it with a lump of wood and it's off. With the new nut sand the sides down until it fits ensuring you take the same amount of each side and sand it down until it's slightly higher than your current nut (about 1mm) then fit the nut without glue, try to keep the depth tight so that when you press it in to the neck it remains. Run some strings set the guitar up and if the nut feels good remove the strings and glue it using PVA do not use super glue on the nut there are many many boring reasons not to do this that I won't go in to! If the nut is too high (poor first fret playability) sand your nut down until your happy.

 

That's basically it, at least doing it yourself you can alter the playability on the fly for your preference.

 

Either that or take it in to a local techy and ask for it to be the same as your current nut.

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Do you need to glue it at all? I always thought a snug fit was enough

 

Arguably yes but it's easy to knock it when changing strings which can upset all sorts of things. Where as if you use PVA you just give it that extra adhesion, you can easily knock a PVA glued nut off in the manner I described early if and when you come to replace it but it won't move unless under a shear force so it will remain still the rest of the time.

 

That was one of the reasons I said never to use super glue, as it will likely cause the wood to splinter or the glue will remain in place after the nut has been replaced and then you have to chisel the glue out and more importantly it will cause resonance issues :)

Edited by Witz

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Arguably yes but it's easy to knock it when changing strings which can upset all sorts of things. Where as if you use PVA you just give it that extra adhesion, you can easily knock a PVA glued nut off in the manner I described early if and when you come to replace it but it won't move unless under a shear force so it will remain still the rest of the time.

 

That was one of the reasons I said never to use super glue, as it will likely cause the wood to splinter or the glue will remain in place after the nut has been replaced and then you have to chisel the glue out and more importantly it will cause resonance issues :)

 

I wish I knew that about super glue before. One of my guitars had the nut come off (didn't really seem to have any sort of adhesive at all, or maybe it just wore away due to age) so I glued it back, but I don't think it will be too much of an issue as I used the water thin stuff (which btw can cause your carpet to catch on fire if you're not careful) and JUST enough to keep it from coming off again.

 

As for replacing the nut, I'll probably end up having someone else do it. I should learn how though, as I've got a few that could be replaced (strings are sitting too low in the slots, or are ringing due to the slot being too wide) but haven't got around to it yet.

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I wish I knew that about super glue before. One of my guitars had the nut come off (didn't really seem to have any sort of adhesive at all, or maybe it just wore away due to age) so I glued it back, but I don't think it will be too much of an issue as I used the water thin stuff (which btw can cause your carpet to catch on fire if you're not careful) and JUST enough to keep it from coming off again.

 

As for replacing the nut, I'll probably end up having someone else do it. I should learn how though, as I've got a few that could be replaced (strings are sitting too low in the slots, or are ringing due to the slot being too wide) but haven't got around to it yet.

 

Yeah a small amount of superglue especially the watery sort won't matter much, the problem comes when you use a good superglue or epoxy as they form covalent bonds within the wood itself in effect creating an unpredictable composite form which of course is not something you want under your guitar nut :)

 

Going back to the hexpander stuff the new Roland GP-10 http://www.roland.co.uk/products/productdetails.aspx?p=1319 looks like a bit of kit I could go for, cheaper than the GR-55 has some synths and other effects plus is also a amp modeller and I'm after a new one as I feel my Podxt is letting me down a bit in the tone department! Good piece of kit but my demands have moved beyond it :)

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Yeah a small amount of superglue especially the watery sort won't matter much, the problem comes when you use a good superglue or epoxy as they form covalent bonds within the wood itself in effect creating an unpredictable composite form which of course is not something you want under your guitar nut :)

 

Going back to the hexpander stuff the new Roland GP-10 http://www.roland.co.uk/products/productdetails.aspx?p=1319 looks like a bit of kit I could go for, cheaper than the GR-55 has some synths and other effects plus is also a amp modeller and I'm after a new one as I feel my Podxt is letting me down a bit in the tone department! Good piece of kit but my demands have moved beyond it :)

 

I see what you mean; I didn't realize it goes inside of the wood like that.

 

I wasn't aware of the GP-10. That looks like more than enough, so I might look into that instead of the GR-55. Not really concerned about the amp modeling on these; I usually just bypass them and use the effects only.

 

sJIJ8O56uNE

 

Might preorder one, though I'm not sure when they're meant to be released.

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I see what you mean; I didn't realize it goes inside of the wood like that.

 

I wasn't aware of the GP-10. That looks like more than enough, so I might look into that instead of the GR-55. Not really concerned about the amp modeling on these; I usually just bypass them and use the effects only.

 

sJIJ8O56uNE

 

Might preorder one, though I'm not sure when they're meant to be released.

 

Yeah the gp-10 looks like a lovely peice of kit. Let us know if you get one as I'm very intrigued

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^^^

I'm liking the red carbon very nice what wood did you use out of interest?

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Looks ace! Did you change the shape? Right horn looks different than the normal MA shape.

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What's left to do?
backplates should be put on and the final tests should be conducted in the course of next week

 

^^^

I'm liking the red carbon very nice what wood did you use out of interest?

Alder

Looks ace! Did you change the shape? Right horn looks different than the normal MA shape.

 

I asked for a standard ma shape, nothing out of the ordinary there

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Looks ace! Did you change the shape? Right horn looks different than the normal MA shape.

 

I thought the same thing. Seems a bit more MoC like, but a little longer

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That guitar looks great!

 

I asked for a standard ma shape, nothing out of the ordinary there

 

Has the standard MA body shape been altered slightly then? It could just be the angle the photo was taken from but it looks like a full sized XY pad migh fit on that

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Almost finished! :D

 

2lagagz.png

 

I'm not sure if it's just the blue case complementing the deep red so well, but that does look very pretty. Quite nice and simple too - I like it.

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Some people's eyes are rubbish.

 

I think the dark reflection of the case that is coming off half of the horn is giving off the illusion that it's sharp edged. But it isn't. :LOL:

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I'm not sure if it's just the blue case complementing the deep red so well, but that does look very pretty. Quite nice and simple too - I like it.

it's pretty, works well in black, white, grey backgrounds too. blue actually clashes the shit out of it to be fair ;P

 

got to love simple guitars.

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Some people's eyes are rubbish.

 

I think the dark reflection of the case that is coming off half of the horn is giving off the illusion that it's sharp edged. But it isn't. :LOL:

 

If they were that rubbish, then the lower edge of the body would be missing too :p It still looks slightly more pointed and longer to me

 

The shape has definitely changed since the first ones. I think the first ones were slightly longer and had a larger horn.

 

http://www.mansonguitars.co.uk/#!untitled/zoom/c1pa7/image1ywy

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Yeah the gp-10 looks like a lovely peice of kit. Let us know if you get one as I'm very intrigued

 

Will do, I'll be pre-ordering one once they allow me to. Not sure when they'll actually be available though

 

Also, just ordered the NVS and NVT from graphtech. I think I might leave the nut alone until it has to go in for that fretwork though.

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