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Lol, what you paying him for James?

 

 

-mahogany body (chambered) - sakura shape (single cutaway). natural finish on back.

-flame maple top (dark blue finish)

-plain maple neck. soft v shape, natural finish on back, set in sculpted neck joint.

-standard 25.15" scale

-rosewood fretboard with stainless steel medium jumbo frets. same 12th fret inlay as the last few guitars. 10" radius

-headstock to match the body, with a silver AF logo.

-graphite nut

-gotoh 510 tuners (chrome)

-fully covered chrome set of BKP miracle man pickups with AF logo on bridge pickup. 4 conductor for coil tapping.

-tone pros tune o matic bridge and tail piece (chrome)

-3 way toggle switch (LP type). recessed ..

-two 500k pots (both push pull for coil tapping each pickup).

-switchcraft output jack mounted on side of body. chrome jack plate.

-chrome dome knobs (recessed)

-black pickup rings

-schaller strap buttons (chrome)

-setup for C standard with rotosound 12's

 

 

 

shape's going to be the same as this one

 

29.jpg

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-mahogany body (chambered) - sakura shape (single cutaway). natural finish on back.

-flame maple top (dark blue finish)

-plain maple neck. soft v shape, natural finish on back, set in sculpted neck joint.

-standard 25.15" scale

-rosewood fretboard with stainless steel medium jumbo frets. same 12th fret inlay as the last few guitars. 10" radius

-headstock to match the body, with a silver AF logo.

-graphite nut

-gotoh 510 tuners (chrome)

-fully covered chrome set of BKP miracle man pickups with AF logo on bridge pickup. 4 conductor for coil tapping.

-tone pros tune o matic bridge and tail piece (chrome)

-3 way toggle switch (LP type). recessed ..

-two 500k pots (both push pull for coil tapping each pickup).

-switchcraft output jack mounted on side of body. chrome jack plate.

-chrome dome knobs (recessed)

-black pickup rings

-schaller strap buttons (chrome)

-setup for C standard with rotosound 12's

 

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yeah that kind of thing if thats what you want. when it comes to the blue i'll do some samples on off cuts and see which you like best.

 

as for binding - could do rosewood binding to hide the fret ends but look normal. or rosewood binding with the white/black purfling to highlight it

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yeah that kind of thing if thats what you want. when it comes to the blue i'll do some samples on off cuts and see which you like best.

 

as for binding - could do rosewood binding to hide the fret ends but look normal. or rosewood binding with the white/black purfling to highlight it

 

that's cool, and the white/black purfling sounds good. would this actually cover the fret ends like on a gibson or would the frets be over it? I know lots of companies (even ones that make high end guitars) have the frets outside the binding

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that's cool, and the white/black purfling sounds good. would this actually cover the fret ends like on a gibson or would the frets be over it? I know lots of companies (even ones that make high end guitars) have the frets outside the binding

 

definately frets over the binding. theres only really gibson that do it the other way, and they only keep doing it now cos 'thats how they were in the good old days'.

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definately frets over the binding. theres only really gibson that do it the other way, and they only keep doing it now cos 'thats how they were in the good old days'.

 

that's cool

 

and i suppose they also do that to hide the sharp fret edges haha

 

oh, and also, how did you do those fancy 12th fret inlays on the first two guitars? (the fireburst and the turquoise one). all by hand?

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yeah all by hand. the fairy was my first inlay ever apart from dots obviously. if you want something fancy you can have it, tho it will add money cos shell/stone is quite expensive and its a lot of time cutting them

 

but if you have something in mind - it is your guitar

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it depends what kind of stuff. but in general yeah. what did you have in mind?

 

Just a change of pickups and replacing pots, sort of stuff i'd normally do myself but want this guitar to be nicer than my normal work (i'm a lousy solderer). erm also maybe a nut change and (i dunno if this is a pain in the arse or not) but some work to blend a screw hole into a finish. does that sound up your street?

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out of interest, would this be a big job.. ive overscrewed one of my bridge screw things in the wrong direction while attempting changing the height of my strings at the bridge.. the result seems to be that i cant change the height at all now and its stuck at its lowest. i think i screwed the thing too far and have totally coupled it with its thread in the body.

 

tonepic1.jpg

that bit ^

 

what can be done? im a bit cautious about it, because of the cost of the guitar and the finish (silverburst.. does this make any difference? i heard it was pretty easy to scratch during repairs if not careful)

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Just a change of pickups and replacing pots, sort of stuff i'd normally do myself but want this guitar to be nicer than my normal work (i'm a lousy solderer). erm also maybe a nut change and (i dunno if this is a pain in the arse or not) but some work to blend a screw hole into a finish. does that sound up your street?

 

yeah that all seems fine. depends what the finish is as to how easy it would be to do but it should be doable.

 

and the man - slacken all the strings and see if you can adjust it then. if you cant do it by hand get some needle nose pliars, put a cloth or something around the bridge post so you dont scratch the finish, and try doing it that way

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yeah all by hand. the fairy was my first inlay ever apart from dots obviously. if you want something fancy you can have it, tho it will add money cos shell/stone is quite expensive and its a lot of time cutting them

 

but if you have something in mind - it is your guitar

 

hmm how much extra would that eye inlay like on the turquoise guitar be? and what material would be used for that?

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yeah that all seems fine. depends what the finish is as to how easy it would be to do but it should be doable.

 

and the man - slacken all the strings and see if you can adjust it then. if you cant do it by hand get some needle nose pliars, put a cloth or something around the bridge post so you dont scratch the finish, and try doing it that way

 

yeh, cant undo it by hand because its coupled. the other side can be adjusted by hand. turning it with pliers makes it turn, but it doesnt turn inside the thread if you know what i mean (i assume its like a nut and bolt configuration, and here the nut is screwed so tight into the bolt that when i turn it, they both turn together?) the height doesnt change when i screw it, so im a bit stuck!

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