adds
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Go Travis street - A662 - Merrill street - Ashton New Rd. it's all regenerated that way, used to do that walk from piccadilly daily.
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Was devestated to miss out yesterday (whilst my colleague on the desk behind me got 2 tickets no problem ). but I figured I'd check again this morning and got two what a relief
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Been getting my portrait cap on Portrait by SnipingForPacifists, on Flickr Portrait by SnipingForPacifists, on Flickr
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greetings all. I am around, I just have no free time between working, commuting and sleeping. This weekend saw me on babysitting duty... Harvey by SnipingForPacifists, on Flickr
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lonely by SnipingForPacifists, on Flickr may or may not have been trying to emulate Gregory Crewdson.
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I played around for so long trying to straighten the bloody thing, messing with perspective correction, rotating it etc when one part looked right another then seemed off so i just called it a day and thought that'll do. i'll have to figure out how to straighten things properly, i think it's best done in photoshop rather than lightroom
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camera was gathering dust so i've decided to take it on the commute every now n then. Lines by SnipingForPacifists, on Flickr
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Bugger! two days before pay day
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Very nice, i'm craving an 85mm. things just look so nice at that focal length. Got myself a galaxy S4 today, time to hit up instagram
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http://vsco.co/ instahipster! to be fair it's actually rather decent when used well. which it never is. much like filters on instagram. maybe im just a grumpy sod. i've quit taking photos of drunks now too was fun for a bit, but impossible to keep up a full time job and that. one more shift left though. eurgh. working mon-fri (first time ever) has left me with no energy to shoot stuff. my commute perhaps? hmmm
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all you need is VSCO and photoshop skills. there's a lot less photography here than you'd think. edit: ok looking through his portfolio he does have some decent shots that rely less on photoshop ability. but not my cup of tea
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i'll vouch for lightroom. it's essential for me. really intuitive once you learn to use the sliders. i have hundreds of shots to edit weekly and I couldn't imagine putting them all through photoshop. God i need to take more photos!! (that aren't of drunks). i just keep making excuses. mainly based on my lighting. i could do with another flash, may just get a yn560-II, and a modifier, looking at a 1.5m octa. any strobists here who can lend a hand. will mainly be for portraiture (with speedlights). I also need to figure out how to go about getting good portraits, how to find the subjects and locations etc.
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yeah you can push shutter speeds during the day, around 1/100 - 1/160 is good, it is also dependent on your iso (higher iso, the quicker shutter speed you can use) which itself is dependent on the ambient light you have available; bright day? iso 100. grey and cloudy? iso 600 - ish. that's not set in stone obviously, play around a bit and see what works for you, eventually you'll just be able to look at the light you have and settings will start coming to mind. as for aperture, if i want as much in focus as possible i go by the saying "f/8 and be there". meaning you can't really go wrong with f/8, it's one of the sharpest apertures on most lenses and doesn't interfere with shutter speed that much (the higher the f stop the slower you'll need your shutter speed to allow enough light to get through). and you'll get everything in focus. that and f/11. i should try harder not to ramble on. or post more images to make up for it. so here's a fun one from a shoot this week. i've been enamoured with Terry Richardson recently. also, i should get a rotating flash bracket to eliminate that shadow when shooting vertically. anybody have experience with one? Fortuna as Terry by SnipingForPacifists, on Flickr
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I tried a bit of handheld night shooting with my D5100 a while back and the end result is a mix of a few things: 1) the lens, using a lens with a wide max aperture (2.8 or below, ideally even 1.8 or below) will help a lot, what lens were you using? when i was doing it i was only using the kit lens so the widest i could go was 3.5-5.6 which leaves shots quite soft and still doesn't allow in that much light compared to a 1.8 prime. try to shoot at the widest aperture you can. 2) ISO, probably second most important after the lens and unfortunately where the difference in the quality of the body shows. taking a look at the shots I took i was shooting at ISO 4000 which gave good-usable results, but a higher end body will be able to use a lower ISO and produce a similar or better exposure (especially when coupled with the wide aperture lens) and the lower the ISO, the less noise and generally better IQ you get. 3) shutter speed (even though it's 3rd it's still really important, as shutter speed controls ambient light), the general rule for the lowest you can go is to match your shutter speed to the focal length e.g. shooting at 35mm the lowest you can get a sharpish image should be about 1/35. I've found there's a lot of room here to go even slower in the hope of catching more ambient, just don't be shooting particularly fast moving things. tl;dr try to use the exposure triangle (aperture, ISO, shutter speed) to get the most out of the shot. but good gear obviously gives an advantage. check out Maciej Dakowicz's Cardiff after dark series for how it should be done. flickr also has the exif data for his shots so that's useful (although i think he used a 5d mkiii and fast lens) Also, i got a call yesterday from my friend, she's starting a charity and needs headshots etc been wanting to do a shoot with her for aaages (she's absolutely stunning), she also likes Terry Richardson's stuff and I'd like to see if we can get some GQ style shots out of her. oh and she says she might bring her friend Gabby. who just happens to be Miss Wales.
