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Everything posted by donbenjy

  1. yeah, my girlfriend is like an uber graphics student so she can sort out our publicity just gotta make sure our music stands up to the flyer now Speaking of that, I finally managed to get us into a tangled web of noise at the end of the set :D warbling into a distorted 15w practice amp
  2. Gig in Leicester at the shed if anyone's from around there... flyer attached (you should check out the flyer anyway, it's pretty impressive!)
  3. oh btw, can I just see how people would order these, I have my own opinion, but just want to see if there are any differences: *Custom opamp fuzz that acts abit like the FF, so needs a high impedance input to work properly & interacts well with guitar volume. *Boss OS2- Overdrive/Distortion *DB design Lemon Fuzz - just a basic germanium fuzz *EHX Deluxe Memory Man *Morley Classic Wah
  4. well from random things that my pedals arn't supposed to really do & experiences with fuzz here my 2p: My custom opamp fuzz is alot like the FF, but it does have an octave knob. when you get it oscillating (when not playing) and turn up the octave to get a thick oscillation (something close to the tone on motp, but it's not controlled by a sequencer). When you play over the top you get a synthy type fuzz, but if you hit a string (usually a bottom string) and let it ring, the note kinda modulates back into the oscillation in a way not unlike the motp track, but randomly. When done on high strings it tends not to do it as much. Generally with all fuzz pedals i've played, when you get lots of saturation you get an octave effect anyway...playing on the high strings doesn't octavize (is that a word) really, and sounds much weaker than lower pitched notes. So I think the glitching is gonna be fairly regular & common...Why not ask him to just put in a switch to toggle between what he has atm, & the octave effect? how much will this cost btw?
  5. he means if they dude puts in a blend control that when dry will bypass the octave section, and wet will be just the octave section (this doesn't mean that the guitar won't get through - if just means that 100% of the signal will be octavated (yes, thats a word )). Then he can put in the filter needed to fix the glitching, and mix in the dry high section afterwards. Dunno if this is likely to work but if he made a low pass filter (ie filtered the highs out), then couldn't he make the dry path a high pass filter? so that you end up with dry highs and wet lows...
  6. ok, i dont think mine is actually broken, but there is some random crackly weirdness noise if I have too many distortion/fuzz things on & the overload light blips on when it does it, if the thing is turned off...I think thats the problem! harde to pinpoint though!
  7. it might be good to have glitches in it though...unless you're going for a clean digital sound? Oh Haze, has your DMM ever acted strangely? like not behaving like it should? I had it oscillating last night, with lots of wah and fuzz running through it, & it just suddenly popped & the effect light went out! Had to flick the power switch off & on to get it working again...wondered if this was cos I was overloading the pedal perhaps? so it decided to cut out, cos it had been oscillating quite highly (feedback at 1 o'clockish)...Sounds fine now, but it scared me a little
  8. I was talking about this sentence: Obviously a true bypass looper would cure the problem. But a true bypass pedal is effectively see-through when turned off, so there wouldn't be a difference. I think the guy got confused with a true bypass mod on the big muff, rather than tbp effects either side of the muff.
  9. not sure a tbp pedal would do...ANYTHING when the pedals are turned off cos they are just a bypass (e.g. the input and outut of the pedal get connected together. This is the same of having an extra 15cm of patch cable between effects! when the pedals are ON, they just run as a non tbp pedal would.
  10. hmm, that's weird then...I'm not actually that clever with amps...I just read a really informative article on how they work on the mesa/boogie site actually. I'd recommend everyone interested in tube amps have a look! linky here! Thought it was really useful!
  11. whose this guy btw? I'm just interested if he sells any handbuilt batch type jobs?
  12. the superbass is class A i presume? cba to check for now! halving the tubes will cut the POWER in half, but shouldn't mess with the volume as the signal that would be shared across 4 tubes, now goes between 2, so the main guitar signal into each tube doubles. This means you should get breakup sooner.
  13. hmm, it does lack abit of bass, but would it be better to try out the preamps first, as I might end up with a spare set of power tubes that are perfectly good if I did the whole thing. Just wondered if there was any advantage of replacing all at once...I know that replacing the preamp tubes with the same tubes will enhance the characteristics of that tube, perhaps it works with the pre and power sections?
  14. can anyone recommend me some 12AX7s for my classic 30? I'm after a warmish vintage tone that breask up nicely. I always have it on the "lead" channel (which is really just all 3 preamp tubes, whereas "normal" doesn't have the 2nd tube.) And usually it's set to just on the point of breaking up so it distorts well, but stays pretty clean. I don't often fiddle with it in a gig, so I want something that is driven well. Looking at replacing the stock Sovteks. I was looking at the JJ teslas, but considering the tung sols too (although with all the problems people have been having with theirs in their marshalls recently, its worth questioning the tubes ) Never done a retube before, so no idea what would be good or bad, and if i NEED to get the most expensive tubes I can find to get the best sound. What do people usually stick in AC30s? Any point at all in a poweramp retube? there isn't anything wrong with it, jsut wondered if it would significantly increase my tone?
  15. well distortion falls into roughly 3 sections: Overdrive (bluesy type in-your-face guitar but with all the definition of playing clean...kinda crunchy), Distortion (more gritty-can't always make out every note...tends to be quite saturated and full: makes your guitar sound BIG) and fuzz-listen to PIB or any hendrix
  16. ok well IMHO, all beginners to gear (even if you're fantastic at actually playing the guitar) should try a cheapish muti effects unit just for the variety of sounds. Who cares if they arn't the best vintage tones, cos as a n00b, you won't knwo the difference really anyway Once you get bored/realise that the multi FX thing is actually crap (most people will do after trying some analog single units.) then you can go onto stompboxes. Best thing is to try them all out in a shop, but failing that its bst to get a solid distortion/fuzz/overdrive base of stuff sorted - then I'd suggest a delay, wah, chorus etc. and modulation. Lastly you can look at EQ pedals, compressors n stuff that you can finalize your sound with. Personally I don't feel the need to use a comp or EQ in my current rig, as it all sounds nic and dandy as it is
  17. uh, no offense meant, but do you actually know what a KP2 (or 1) actually does? They're NOT designed for guitar, and unless you did build it into your guitar, it'd be very hard to control! Im sure matt has a tech that changes the patches for him anyway! I think it's a VERY expensive way of making noise imho, and unless you're into techno type stuff, it won't get alot of use... I read a thread where some people were discussing matts "magic pad" and that it "did something on invincible" but that was all they could come up with. That part of invincible isn't even played on the guitar! It's JUST the KP2 (plus maybe a synth, I don't remember). Even though it sounds awesome, I just think it'd be a waste of your money dude! I know I've asked this before, but has anyone tried the little big muff? Worth getting? I can't be doing with a full sized muff
  18. eww no! mank mank mank! Try the Electro Harmonix Big Muff USA, they're about £40-£50 iirc. Or you can build a fuzz farily easily if you're handy with a soldering iron!
  19. hmm, trying to remember inpedance maths: that means I can run 4x16 ohm/ 2x8 ohm cabs in a row, but none in stereo right? thats ok
  20. that last comment makes it sound like you're ashamed of your boss stuff! Why try and get as much custom gear as possible when in most cases, the boss stuff is fully acceptible! I think boss make great workhorse stuff - not usually too impressive when compared to others, but they do the job well! Why get rid of the compressor just cos a big muff is "cooler" cos, lets face it, the FF is SOOOOO 2006 and everyone who's ANYONE around here has a big muff these days! Compression and Fuzz arn't mutually exclusive you know (that means you are allowed to use both btw). Keep everything!
  21. yeah but i'd expect what with shipping & packaging, plus the £50 transformer I'd probably spend as much on one off ebay with lots of bids anyway guess I'd better start saving then what switching options are there for stereo cabs etc. on the bassman btw? the one I played is always hooked to a 4x12 and thats by far enough
  22. that would most likely completely stop the feedback/squeal stuff...Dunno if you've played with your Big muff too much, but when you run a fuzz after stuff it looses a bit of it's bite and kick (which is sometimes a good thing) but means that the impedance of the signal changes alot. I think anyway, I don't actually own a FF but I have built my own unruly fuzz, and it only works best infront of everything!
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